Tag Archive: Vehicle

February 10th, 2014
post by policysup | | 0

How to Store Fuel Properly

Fuel is one of the most important things that you can use in an emergency. Whether it powers a car, generator, or stove; you’ll need to make sure that your fuel is ready for when you need it.

Handle all fuels with care. Remember that all of these could light at a moment’s notice.

We’ve collected a few tips on how to properly store different types of fuels, where you should store them, and how long they can store.

Containers for liquid fuel
When storing fuel, or other fire-starting material, you’ll want to make sure to put them in a different colored container. Most of the time, liquid fuels are stored in red containers. At a minimum, containers should be obviously labeled.

Make sure that containers are sturdy, reliable and have a good seal on them. You want to make sure that the fuel won’t leak. You should also consider a container that isn’t clear or translucent.

Gasoline

The American Petroleum Institute recommends that you only store gasoline for up to two years. This recommendation does not include gasoline that has been treated with a stabilizer.

There are many types of stabilizers on the shelf that can get your gasoline to store for a few years longer.

While I’ve used gasoline that has been stored for years on my lawn mower, using “stale” gasoline that has been stored for an long time can have some diverse effects on your motor. The recommendation for 1-2 years of shelf-life would provide optimal gasoline.

Diesel Fuel


Surprisingly, diesel doesn’t have a very long shelf-life. It can only last for 6-12 months.

The problem with storing diesel is that it begins to oxidize as soon as it leaves the refinery. Sediments begin to form that would clog the motor. This reaction can be slowed by keeping the fuel cooler and by adding stabilizers. The condensation from the gasoline can also form algae.

Some people who store diesel for a long time (the Navy, gas companies) use methods to stabilize their supply. These methods can be pretty expensive though.

We recommend that you store only a maximum of two-month’ worth of diesel at a time and empty the canisters into your car or generator when you rotate. (Thanks to Oblio13’s blog for the insight.)


Kerosene


Kerosene is one of the easiest fuels to store, and is more versatile than most people think. It does not evaporate as readily as gasoline and will remain stable in storage with no special treatment.

Kerosene has a shelf-life of about three months in a plastic container. Storing kerosene for longer than that can result in bacteria and mold forming in the container.

When you store the kerosene, be sure to label the container properly. You want to make sure that it doesn’t mix with gasoline or another type of fuel. You should store your kerosene in a different color container than gas to ensure that they are not mistakenly mixed.

Be sure to store the kerosene outdoors but protected from direct sunlight. Prolonged sunlight can degrade the kerosene.


Butane


Butane isn’t as popular of a fuel as gasoline or kerosene but many people use the fuel for lighters or other small fire starters. Many backpacking kits use butane fuel.

“Butane comes in pressurized containers and the canisters are required, by law, to have instructions on the label regarding storage and usage of the product. Following the instructions will ensure that you keep your butane supply safe.

Proper storage is the first element in butane safety. Keep it in a safe place at home that is out of any children’s reach. Many containers can withstand even high temperatures. Even if you live in a climate that is rather warm, your butane should still store well … find a dry and cool place, out of the direct sunlight and away from any other sources of extreme heat.

Additionally, also make sure that the tip of the butane container is not damaged or clogged. If the tip is damaged or is clogged through use, remove the clog or throw away the container and buy a new one.“ (Read the Ebay article.)


Propane


You’ll obviously want to store your propane in a well-ventilated area outdoors. Make sure that your propane tank is stored upright – probably on a concrete slab.

Don’t store the propane tank next to anything flammable. Also ensure that it is stored in an area where a large amount of water will not fall on the tank – for example, next to a gutter or in the open under the rainfall.

Never store the propane in a house or garage. Click here to read Propane 101’s article about proper propane safety.


Charcoal


Charcoal is a great option for cooking fuel. They might get your hands a little bit messier but that’s not always a bad thing. The good thing is that you can store this dry fuel inside your home! However, never cook with charcoal indoors!

You can store charcoal in a dry location – like a bin or metal canister. You can also make a waterproof container by placing the charcoal in a bucket and use a gamma lid to seal the top. This should keep the briquets by not letting moisture into the bucket!

Coal
According to the Fireplace Supplier Register, coal can be stored in damp places without harming it. It can also be retained in areas that have little or no protection from the rain and snow. If you choose, so you don’t have to handle wet coal, you can cover it outside with tarps to keep it dry.

Store bagged coal inside the bags until you’re ready to use it. It will be easier to store it and carry it to the stove. Coal either comes by the bag or by the truckload (if you order several tons). Loose coal is easier to contain if it’s stored in wooden bins, but it’s not necessary. (Reference to the eHow article.)

Firewood
Avoid the temptation to keep a lot of firewood in your home. You can obviously carry in a few logs indoors at a time, but the best location to store firewood is outdoors. It’s recommended that you keep your firewood at least 30 feet away from your house – not leaning against the house, next to the door. Ideally, wood should be kept off the ground too.

You can make a simple firewood holder out of two-by-fours in order to stack the wood properly. Be sure to stack the larger pieces of wood on the bottom of the pile. This will help the pile from leaning or falling over.Here is an article on how to build a firewood caddy.

You’ll want to use a cover to protect the wood from getting wet. You can purchase a specific log rack cover or a simple tarp will do. Make sure that the cover is secured so it doesn’t blow away in the wind.

You may notice that there are some bugs in your firewood. Do not spray your wood with insecticide! This can seep into the wood and fume in your house when you burn the log. Instead, the best thing to do is dry out the wood as quickly as possible. This will encourage most of the bugs to leave the wood.

Matches
There are a variety of matches out there. Avoid placing cheap matchbooks in your kits and emergency supplies. They can absorb moisture a lot easier.

Instead, focus on matches that are waterproof and have longer stems. This will allow you to light things from a safe distance and make sure that your matches are safe from moisture.

If you don’t have waterproof matches, you can place your matches in a waterproof container. Make sure that the container is a thick plastic and isn’t stored in direct sunlight.

 

Start now to make sure you are staying prepared.

 

Via: survivalring


Save pagePDF pageEmail pagePrint page
Email, RSS Follow
Share on Tumblr
Heat, Light, Prepper, Vehicle , , , , , , , , ,
October 11th, 2013
post by policysup | | 0

A Written Plan for Your Preparedness

I am an active prepper. I do have sort of a retreat but not a great bug-out vehicle (yet), but I do what I can for bugging-in and preparing for emergencies. I have extensive food and water preps, tactical supplies, and all of the other trappings of modern-day prepping. Although my family is aware of my prepping, and support my efforts, they are not “in the loop” with how to do what, when to do it, and what to do it with. I have come to realize that many of my preps will be useless if anything happens to me. A good example of this is my emergency comm gear. It’s good gear, easily accessed, and will work well, but there are no user-friendly instructions on how to use the gear. Another example would simply to list where everything is located, as my preps are spread throughout the home, vehicles, and remote locations. There are many, many things that I can do with the gear, but might be a stretch for my wife and children, simply due to the lack of instructions.

To this end I have begun documenting all of the needed information regarding our preps. This is being done in plain text, and then a printed copy will be hidden, and a copy given to my wife. Digital versions on the thumb drive are encrypted with a password that we all know well. The docs begin with a detailed inventory that gives location, quantity, and a short description. After the inventory I have started writing how-to docs for each area of need, and the level of detail is just deep enough to get the job done. As is the case with most such articles on preps, bug-out-bags, etc., I begin with water, food, shelter, protection, safety, communications, and lastly, comfort. I have kept the technical jargon to a minimum, and intend to solicit feedback from my family to clear up any points that need it.

With regard to each are of prepping, in some short discussions with my family that safety and security are two areas where considerable discussion was required before writing my docs. The reason is very predictable, my family consists of my wife and two teenage daughters. While they are all very sharp, and quite capable, some aspects of safety and security are difficult for them to accept. An example is the need to hide the bulk of our preps, while leaving a substantial quantity of food and water out in the relative open. I think this is needed because looters WILL come, and they can more easily dealt with if they are not coming up empty-handed. The other reason may be obvious, they might give up looking once they think they have taken all they can find, so the bulk of our preps will be secure. My family thinks that there will no looters, and that if I think there will be, then we should hide all our preps. Another example is dealing with strangers. My family of females is not as callus as I am, and will want to lend aid much too readily. After having lengthy discussions with my family, I was careful to re-state my concerns for security in the related docs. Mainly, be cautious and suspicious at all times. We should always be ready to lend aid and be charitable, but individual safety comes first. My rules are simple, in an emergency situation, no one outside the family is allowed in the house, and if we are providing any sort of aid the recipient will remain at least twenty-five  feet from the door until it is closed and locked, no exceptions.

In creating my docs, I have tried to write instructions as I perform a task, at least mentally. I have found that when I describe how to do things, I leave out small details that I take for granted. Don’t do this! Be exacting when it counts. We don’t want to bog-down anyone with too much detail, but overlooking a small but critical detail could be disastrous. A prime example is the fact that my gun safe key must be turned before dialing-in the combination or it wont open. It’s a key feature of the safe, and a detail I have long since just taken for granted. Although a tiny detail, this could easily hinder my family in my absence. I’m sure you can all think of dozens of small things similar in this respect.

Another aspect of preparing these docs is the printed version. Digital copies are valuable, I store mine on a pair of thumb drives, but printed copies are mandatory. If there is no computer to read the docs, they are useless. I have started printing my docs on waterproof paper, using larger than normal (14 pt) bold type font. They are then placed in zip-loc bags with moisture absorbers  and stored in a predetermined location, high above the water line of any potential flood. My wife thinks putting a copy in a fire safe is a good idea, I may agree with her. (it’s so hard admitting she’s right!). I have read articles about encoding printed docs, but it seems to be a dangerous practice, except maybe for very sensitive information, and the need for that kind of secrecy is far outweighed in my mind by the need to get the information quickly in an emergency situation. We’re talking about how to start the generator here, not nuclear launch codes!


I believe that the digital copies of these docs should be written and saved in a simple .txt format whenever possible, even if encrypted. You never know what sort of device or program you might have to open them on. The more universal the format, the better. If you have diagrams or pictures, consider using a PDF format for those. The PDF format is widely supported on computers, phones, tablets, just about any digital device available. If you will be printing docs that must contain actual photos, try and use high-contrast black and white in all of your images. In the long run, these images will last longer and will maintain readability better under adverse conditions, and the high contrast will make them easier to read under low-light conditions. Regarding storage of the printed docs, I found some surplus Army signal flare tubes that seem to fit the bill perfectly for this task.  I also put a chemical light stick in the tubes with the docs. This way we have a ready light source if needed to read them in the dark. I found the tubes at a local gun show, but I bet there are millions of these things out there on Ebay and military-surplus outlets. Another idea would be just to make your own tubes with PVC pipe and screw-on caps. If the tube does not fit your docs, there are countless waterproof containers out there. You might even consider fireproof containers in addition to waterproof containers.

So far my family has been supportive in giving me feedback on my docs and it’s going well. I expect that will change some as we get into more sophisticated activities like setting the channels up on a 2 meter hand held radio, or setting the bait hook on a small game trap. In the end, I believe that my preps will be complimented well by a good set of documents and procedures. My original thought was to provide the needed information to my family in the event that I was not here, for whatever reason. After several weeks of typing, I am keenly aware that there were some things I needed to brush up on as well. Now more than ever, I think it’s true: you don’t know how to do anything well until you can tell someone else how to do it. I strongly suggest that you use this opportunity to use and test gear and practice using tools and techniques, having found many times that some things were much easier to do in my memory than they currently seem to be. It can also be a great opportunity to get your family more involved in the practical side of preparation. We live in the deep south east where hurricanes are quite common, and I love the thought of my family knowing how to take care of themselves in the event of any emergency. It also gives me a chance to spend more time with my kids, and that’s always good.

So to recap my thoughts here:

  1. Make a good inventory of all of your preps.
  2. Write a detailed how-to document for each prepping item.
  3. Make no assumptions, where needed be very thorough.
  4. Store digital copies in an encrypted file.
  5. Use a safe but easy-to-remember password on your files.
  6. Make printed copies on waterproof paper.
  7. Store multiple copies of digital and printed versions in safe locations.
  8. Review the docs with the people that will be using them.
  9. Use the docs to practice using tools and techniques.
  10. Setup a periodic review and update schedule for updating your docs.

I hope others find this informative, good luck with all of your preps, I hope you never need them!

For more in depth information on encryption, see the Wikipedia page on encryption software.

And this link will take you to the free encryption software that I use:
http://download.cnet.com/TrueCrypt/3000-2092_4-10527243.html

Some really good sources for waterproof paper can be found using these links:
http://geology.com/store/waterproof/paper.shtml
http://www.igage.com/mp/wpp/igage_weatherproof_paper.htm
http://www.waterproofpaper.com

Or, you can waterproof your own paper.

 

Start now to make sure you are staying prepared.

 

Via: survivalblog


Save pagePDF pageEmail pagePrint page
Email, RSS Follow
Share on Tumblr
Bug out Bags, Communication, Disaster, Economy, Food Storage, Prepper, Vehicle, Water , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
August 16th, 2013
post by policysup | | 0

Extending Your Vehicle’s Driving Range, Without Cost, by Steven B.

A while back, I remember reading a tantalizingly titled but substantively misleading news article about a group of junior high school students who built a “car” that attained a fuel efficiency of 150 mpg. After reading the story, my skepticism was confirmed that a bunch of junior high school students “out-engineered” those who engineer automobiles for a living, or more succinctly for profit. The vehicle they built was little more than a soap box racer with a Briggs and Stratton lawn mower engine; more of a go-cart instead of a practical conveyance.

What I did discover in reading the article was that the efficiency was much more attributable to simple driving techniques rather than technological innovation. I immediately saw the opportunity to save a few dollars. When I practiced and developed these driving techniques, it was no longer a matter of saving a few dollars. Upon extrapolating it out over the course of one year, it was over $300 which is quite substantive to me.
Pulse and Glide Driving (PGD) was the term used in the story and it very effectively captures the essence of the technique. It is not difficult to deduce the practical application from just those four words. I have applied this to my regular driving habits, which living in a major city suburb limits me to about 90 percent city driving conditions. I have proven that it does indeed work in stop and go traffic, although not as effectively as dramatically as it does in highway conditions. There are other factors I have also incorporated to further reduce the impact of fuel expenses on my wallet. I will mention them here as well, but be mindful that the bulk of the improved efficiency is gained by cyclical periods of moderate acceleration and coasting along in neutral.

First, let me tell you about my vehicle.  I do not have a good bug out vehicle. I drive a sensible commuter in the form of a 2008 Kia Rondo and my commute to work is less than two miles. In the South Florida summertime with the air conditioning running, it gets about 16 mpg city and 19 mpg highway. Using PGD, I routinely inflate those figures to 20 mpg city and about 25 mpg highway, and that is with the air conditioning still running. These figures represent approximately a 25 percent improvement without installing a penny’s worth of performance improving equipment or sacrificing environmental comfort. You would be totally surprised (or not) how important both those notions are driving around with three females; two of them under the age of eight.
The basic principles of PGD are very simple:

  • Accelerate to a good cruising speed and decouple the transmission (means shift into neutral for automatics or push in the clutch for standards). When in neutral, keep your foot completely off the accelerator. An idling engine burns little gas and keeps your hydraulic and electrical systems working to maintain steerage and braking capacity. Use your vehicle’s momentum to keep going down the road for as long as practical before re-engaging the transmission for another stretch of acceleration.
    NOTE: You may want to get the engine’s RPM up a bit from idle before re-engaging the transmission to reduce the mechanical stress on the power train as it begins to apply force to the ground again. This takes practice to get the transitions smoothed out and is not completely necessary.
  • Use downgrades to your advantage. Let gravity accelerate your vehicle while your engine sips the same amount of fuel as it does sitting at a stop sign. This is especially effective in hilly or mountainous areas. I have averaged 32+ mpg in West Virginia on a road trip; doubling my city mileage and by far my best record!
  • Shift into neutral when approaching red lights and stop signs. There is no reason to be burning any more fuel than at idle coming up to a place at which you know you need to stop. Additionally, other drivers (even those following closely behind you) will have little reason to become angry since it’s obvious why your speed is bleeding off.
  • Try to keep your cycles fairly even. By this I mean accelerate to your cruising speed, coast until about 10 mph have been bled off and accelerate again to cruising speed. There does come a point of diminishing returns if you coast to a dead stop before reaccelerating.
  • Do not use more braking than is needed. Every time you tap the brake pedal is energy burned off your brake pads instead of moving you down the road. Do not be fooled by “engine braking” either. Using an engine to slow your vehicle is not very effective and puts additional mechanical stress on your engine. Brake pads are much cheaper than engines and far easier to replace.
  • Do not make your target cruising speed too high as this will reduce your efficiency. Any pilot will tell you that induced drag is not a great thing to have more of when it is you paying the fuel bill. The faster you go, the harder the apparent wind pushes back on your vehicle no matter how aerodynamically it has been constructed.
  • Avoid accelerating too quickly as jackrabbit starts do not burn fuel as completely as does a moderate acceleration. If you are in a situation where you do need to move quickly as a matter of safety, then by all means punch it without a second thought. Fuel is far less expensive than life.

There are also a couple extra things you can do to stretch your tank’s range even more.

  • Reduce the load on the engine as much as possible. Air conditioning is something that you might not want to do without depending where you live, however the electrical load of headlights are totally unnecessary in clear daylight hours in all but the most unusual driving conditions. Any other high current devices should also be shut off or otherwise disabled when not needed.
  • Although ethanol blends are nearly universally distributed as the main gasoline fuel supply, search for pure gasoline retailers. Make trips there a couple times a year with your gas cans and rotate them accordingly. Pure gas contains no ethanol, burns more efficiently and will increase your mileage since an inefficient fuel is not being added. Go to Pure-gas.org and see if a retailer is open for business in your area.

This is all well and good, but there are times when you definitely should not use PGD techniques.

  • By constantly varying your velocity on the highway in heavy traffic, you are sure to earn the enmity of all who are driving behind you on cruise control. Exercise good judgment and employ PGD techniques only when conditions allow.
  • If you’re on a busy secondary road with traffic close behind you, do not make yourself a nuisance.  Just drive normally until you have a quarter mile or so of empty space behind you.
  • Do not accelerate to unsafe speeds in order to get the longest glide possible. If you have to ask why, then go find the nearest cast iron frying pan and beat yourself in the forehead because you are an idiot. A speeding ticket will negate half a year’s savings. Additionally, fuel savings are of little consequence to the dead. Keep it sane.
  • Do not expect to develop the technique too fast. If you are like me, get used to the idea of steering with your left hand a lot while operating the gearshift with your right. I was surprised how sore my left arm became on long trips. Other aspects of PGD require much practice to develop and you should not expect to be great at doing it right from the start. Be patient with yourself and the results will come as you put more thought into what you are doing.

Another thing to think about is by developing and refining these techniques is that you are not only going to save money now, but you are also extending the driving range of your vehicle. A tankful of gas that used to get me only 250 miles now gets me 300; more if I turn off the air conditioner, headlights and parking lights. In the less austere times that could lie ahead, this may be an important factor. If maximum range is of the most importance to you, use the highest grade premium gasoline you can get. For everyday driving however, use the lowest octane rating that provides acceptable performance without engine knocking or pinging. It’s also cheaper, which is the whole point here. Imagine the extra preps you could have after just one year!

If you are on the road to your retreat for a permanent move, incorporating these techniques could mean the difference between getting there with the fuel you can carry drawn from your own stocks or facing the reality of having to obtain more fuel along the way. It may be prohibitively expensive, dangerous to scavenge or outright unavailable at any price. Bring your jerry cans and have a few 5 Hour Energy drinks readily available– you never know when you might need them.

JWR Adds: Be advised that coasting in neutral is banned in some jurisdictions, for safety reasons. “Gliding” can be hazardous in areas with traffic congestion. Also be aware that you can burn out your clutch if you don’t fully disengage it during your “glides.” FWIW, I used to turn my engine’s ignition off just before very long downgrades (which is illegal in many jurisdictions.) But of course with modern steering column locks, this is no longer possible with most manual transmission cars and light trucks.

 

Start now to make sure you are staying prepared.

Via: survivalblog


Save pagePDF pageEmail pagePrint page
Email, RSS Follow
Share on Tumblr
Prepper , , , , , , ,
March 11th, 2013
post by policysup | | 0

Eight Reasons Gas Will Hit $5 This Year

I found this article which I thought I would share. A little business technical at times but many good facts.

We all know as gas prices rise, so does the cost of everything else we use.

=====

The price of gas is a widely covered news item these days. Oil prices have moved up from $75 a barrel in October of last year to more than $100 a barrel currently. And the trend continues to point toward even higher oil prices. Of course, along with the price of oil, gas prices have also risen, almost in lockstep.


The price of gasoline today is 10% higher than it was just two months ago. The average price for a gallon of regular is almost $3.62. Gas prices in January have been the highest ever recorded price for that month. Many economists and energy analysts believe a rise to $4 a gallon is inevitable. But their estimates could be grossly understated. Gas will reach $5 a gallon before the end of the year.

Two warring trends are pushing and pulling gas prices. On the one hand, Americans now drive less than at any time in the past 11 years. On the other hand, gasoline and oil inventories are at very low levels around the world, and traders believe that supply will tighten significantly. The fact that Americans drive much less will not offset an interruption of supply from the Middle East, a decision by refineries to charge more to turn oil into gasoline, or higher demand from emerging economies like China and India.

24/7 Wall St. reviewed the major reasons that gas prices have risen in the past quarter and analyzed whether the causes will improve or worsen. We have estimated how much each factor could increase gas prices. Together, those increases would be enough to push gas prices up by another $1.50.

1. Strait of Hormuz

About 20% of the crude oil produced in the world is shipped through the Strait of Hormuz, and Iran has threatened to shut down shipping traffic through the Strait. At its narrowest, the passage is 30 miles wide, so there is a realistic case that a conflict could close it. Iran has already been isolated as a trade partner by U.S. and EU sanctions. The regime in the country has made a number of threats about what it might do if its “national interests” were threatened. If Iran follows through with its threats, the period the passage is closed could be very brief if the U.S. Navy, which has a carrier group in the region, moved to reopen the lane. But it is not clear that the American government would make that decision without the open support of allies or the United Nations. A closure of the passage, or any escalation that would make a closure more likely, will drive oil prices higher — and by extension, gasoline prices.


2. Iran

Iran contributes to a second problem in terms of global oil supply well beyond that of its ability to interrupt supply. Because of the embargo against the nation due to nuclear weapons violations, the U.S. has pressured large oil importers such as Japan to act to isolate Iran by cutting their imports. This puts Japan in a position in which it has to tap even tighter global supply. Japan apparently has agreed to cut its Iranian crude imports by 20%. But as the world’s third largest oil importer, Japan indeed will have to get its oil somewhere other than Iran — which will put more pressure on current production.

3. Refiners Likely to Raise Prices

Most of the oil refined on the east coast of the U.S. is Brent crude, a type of oil produced from the North Sea. The price of Brent — more than $124 a barrel — is almost $16 higher than the price of West Texas Intermediate (WTI) crude, the amount most people read about in the media. But because Brent has replaced WTI as the global price benchmark, U.S. refiners set prices for gasoline and other products as if Brent were the only grade of crude used. That allows refiners with access to cheaper WTI to make larger profits.

However, when the prices converge, as happened in the final two months of 2011, WTI refiners lose their edge — and their hefty profits. “Refiners were losing money in November and December. You can only lose money for so long,” John Felmy, chief economist for the American Petroleum Institute, recently said. Many large refineries are owned by public companies that do not have much appetite for posting ongoing losses. To avoid losses, refiners will have to increase gasoline prices.

4. Other Geopolitical Risks

Iran does not present the only geopolitical challenge to oil production. In Nigeria, which is the 14th largest producer of oil in the world, Islamic terrorist group Boko Haram has continued to attack Christian areas of the country. The Nigerian Army has reacted by attacking Islamists. Militants have continued to attack pipelines, apparently in a move to disrupt the government.

Meanwhile, there are concerns about supply even from Venezuela. Venezuela is the world’s 11th largest producer of crude. The regime there has been fairly stable under the 13-year reign of Hugo Chavez. But Chavez is due for a second cancer surgery later this month. The Miami Herald recently wrote that “some analysts question his [Chavez] ability to hold onto the presidency through the current election cycle.”

Other parts of the Middle East and Africa are also in turmoil. Analysts recently mentioned Bahrain, Libya, Iraq, Nigeria and Yemen as political flashpoints. “The world faces oil supply risks from a multitude of sources, not only in the Middle East but also in Africa. In our view, not since the late 1970s/early 1980s has there been such a serious threat to oil supply,” Soozhana Choi, Deutsche Bank’s head of Asia commodities research, said in a note to clients recently. All these flashpoints translate to further concerns about oil supply. And when oil supplies are tight, the price of oil — and gasoline — increases.


5. European Union Recession

For now, Greece has been bailed out again – a move that should buoy confidence in the region and encourage demand for oil. Even with the Greek bailout, however, the eurozone is not out of the woods as nations continue to implement austerity measures to protect against the risk of default on sovereign debt.

While some experts believe the risk of defaults in the region is overblown, several economies in the eurozone continue to be in trouble. According to a recent European Commission forecast, the eurozone GDP will contract 0.3 percent, driven in part by deep recessions in several southen EU nations, including Spain and Portugal.

Either way, deepening financial and economic trouble in Europe would drop demand for oil there. However, if leaders in the region can settle on mechanisms to protect nations with financial problems from default, national budgets will not be cut to extraordinarily low levels — levels that would otherwise kill both consumer demand and business demand for oil.

6.
U.S. Economic Recovery

An improved U.S. economy means higher oil prices. U.S. GDP, employment and even housing have all staged unexpected improvements in recent months. Many economists now peg a 2012 GDP increase at more than 2%. The new White House budget assumes growth of 3% by 2013. An average of more than 100,000 jobs has been created in each of the past six months. And an extension of payroll tax cuts through the end of this year may further aid the employment recovery. An extension of unemployment benefits means that hundreds of thousands of American who would have no income, will have at least enough to consume basic goods and services. The argument that Americans now drive less is not a powerful one for gas and oil demand when a healthy economy also means more consumption of oil for business, petrochemicals and jet fuel. Demand for oil-based products across the entire economy will pick up with any recovery.

7. It Is Almost Summer

In the U.S., summer vacation driving has historically boosted demand for gasoline. Over the past three or so years, however, that boost has been small, if present at all. In 2011, U.S. traffic volume decreased year-over-year in every month except January and February. But that was last year. So long as the U.S. economy continues to improve, more drivers will be on the road this summer.

8. Supply Risk

In December 2011, OPEC members produced nearly 31 million barrels a day, cutting the cartel’s spare capacity capability from 3.18 million barrels per day to 2.85 million. Saudi Arabia accounts for 2.15 million of those daily barrels of spare capacity.

Whether this data is accurate is arguable. What is not arguable is that starting to pump the spare capacity will take time, which will not be very helpful in the event that the Strait of Hormuz is closed or some other geopolitical risk is realized.

Then there is Russia, the world’s first or second largest producer, depending on which day you look at the data. The OECD is counting on Russian production to make up for some of the short supplies and to grow by 1.4% to 10.72 million barrels a day in 2012. Russia grew its production by 1.2% in 2011. An additional gain of 17% in 2012 could signify that the OECD is hoping that Russian production can grow even more. There is no guarantee that Russia will deliver.

Supply from Canada, the U.S., Australia and Brazil is expected to rise in 2012, though North Sea production is expected to fall. The OECD estimates global demand in 2012 of 90 million barrels a day and global supply essentially equal to projected supply. Nothing about that state of affairs should lead anyone to a conclusion that prices will fall.


via: 247wallst



Save pagePDF pageEmail pagePrint page
Email, RSS Follow
Share on Tumblr
Uncategorized , , , , , , , , ,
March 3rd, 2013
post by policysup | | 0

How To Survive An Earthquake

I`m just going to go ahead and admit it: earthquakes terrify me! Every time I see one on the news, my hair stands up on my arm. I can`t help imagining what it`s like to get up in the middle of the night because your whole house is jumping up and down around you…

And the noise! The noise of furniture banging against the walls… plates, glasses and pots dinging in the kitchen… windows vibrating… and the voice of your frightened children crying for help. I got a cold shiver down my back just by writing this!

I tried to picture how I`d react if my house was just about to crash over me and my family… but I wasn`t very happy with the result. Just like most people, I`d probably freak out and do exactly what I shouldn`t: run down the stairs to get the kids and then go straight out the door and stop in front of the house, where approximately 100 things can fall on me, starting with the house walls and ending with the tree in my yard.

So what`s a man to do when he realises he`s not as prepared for a disaster as Bruce Willis? Well, I don`t know what you`d do… but I started researching earthquake survival like there was no tomorrow. Here`s a brief of what I found:

What you should do before an earthquake:

– Get informed! Read more articles, books or courses on earthquake survival. And watch some documentaries about the biggest earthquakes in history. You`ll notice a whole lot of deadly mistakes you can avoid.

– Tell your family all about earthquake survival. Of course you`ll do everything to protect them if a disaster hits your area, but you`re not a superhero. There are times when you can`t reach your family to provide help. So help them help themselves. It`s the best thing you can do for your loved ones.

– Bullet-proof your home. According to The College of Agricultural and Life Sciences, here`s what you need to do to get a secure home, that won`t crash on you at the first shake.

  • Bolt bookshelves, water heaters and cabinets to wall studs.
  • Anchor things so they don`t move or fall during an earthquake.
  • Move cabinets and tall furniture to keep them from falling on you or other family members. Anchor them to studs in the wall with steel angle brackets.
  • Put heavy or breakable things on bottom shelves. You can even put “fences” or restraining wires to keep items from falling off open shelves.
  • Put child-proof or swing-hook latches on bathroom and kitchen cabinets.
  • Use screw-eyes or tongue-in-groove hangers to mount mirrors or pictures instead of hanging them on nails.
  • Be sure that ceiling fans and light fixtures are well anchored or have earthquake safety wiring.
  • Anchor computers, televisions, stereos and like items with heavy duty Velcro, at home and at work.
  • Strap your water heater to anchor it to wall studs.
  • Do not assume that anything is too heavy to move in an earthquake. When the ground is going up and down in waves, it bounces even the heaviest equipment into the air.

Enough survival techniques for today, hope you`ll start using them to protect your family against disasters. I`ll be back with more earthquake survival strategies next time, so make sure you don`t miss it! Might save your life one day.

Via: myfamilysurvivalplan


Save pagePDF pageEmail pagePrint page
Email, RSS Follow
Share on Tumblr
Uncategorized , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
February 27th, 2013
post by policysup | | 0

Road Side Medical Care Kit

Emergencies can arise in the most unlikely places – even while on the road.  Leaving home means venturing away from the security and the supplies within it.  While no one plans to get sick or hurt on the road, accidents can and do happen.

Preparedness websites and organizations alike have suggested carrying emergency supplies for the car, as well as a medical care kit.  When a person plans for an emergency, they think of the worst case scenario and plans accordingly for the scenarios.  Planning for these situations ahead of time can add convenience and relief to your life.

Pre-assembled first aid kits can be purchased in stores, or you can make your own vehicle kit at a fraction of the cost.  If you plan to make your own first aid kit, keep some considerations in mind:

  • Keep in mind the the unique needs of your family.
  • If you have children, make sure you have child appropriate medications.
  • If a family member has severe allergies or illnesses such as diabetes, keep necessary supplies on hand such as an EpiPen or insulin close by.
  • Have emergency phone numbers written down in case you need to call from a pay phone.

Vehicle Medical Care Kit Suggestions

  • Anti-diarrhea medication
  • Anti-nausea medication
  • Allergy medication
  • Eye drops
  • Exam gloves
  • Pain reliever
  • Band-aids (in different sizes)
  • Ace bandage
  • First aid ointment
  • Anti-bacterial wipes
  • Cold pack
  • Bug spray
  • Sunscreen
  • Flare, compass, mirror
  • Flashlight
  • Duct tape
  • Scissors
  • Tweezers

When an emergency occurs while driving, you want to be as prepared as you would be as if you were in your home.  Having some medical and first aid supplies on hand to deal with upset stomachs, headaches, or minor medical emergencies can save time, money and provide relief when you’re in a pinch.

Via: readynutrition


Save pagePDF pageEmail pagePrint page
Email, RSS Follow
Share on Tumblr
Uncategorized , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
February 22nd, 2013
post by policysup | | 0

When to Bug Out: Knowing the Signs

Disasters such as hurricanes, floods, chemical leaks and for some, societal breakdowns and terrorist attacks can cause some of the largest evacuation complications.  One of the largest concerns during a disaster situation is when to leave. 

While it is important  to listen and keep up to date on the current status of a disaster, as well as actively acquiring information regarding the disaster, the action of packing up and evacuating rests in the evacuees hands; not the governments or the businesses telling the person they have to work until the last minute.  Relying solely on the government’s ability to manage a crisis, takes the power out of a person’s hands and places into a stranger’s hands (who may not have your best interests in mind).  Many have forgotten this and rely only on a governmental body to tell them when they can leave.  It is important to emphasize that the needs and agendas of a local government are different than the citizens. 

Don’t Be Another Statistic: Be Ready

In a situation where people are facing an evacuation order, time is precious.  Typically, people are not ready or prepared to bug out.  When the individuals are unprepared and is combined with the city’s unpreparedness, it does not make a good scenario.  There is no better example of the governemnts incompetence to handle these massive evacuation orders than with what happened during the evacuations of Hurricane Katrina and Rita.   Many state and local governments wait until the very last moment to issue an evacuation order.  Planning to evacuate thousands, if not millions of individuals in a 2-3 day time span, will cause nothing but mass chaos and unnecessary conflict. 

If one lives in an area where they could be prone to disasters, it is always the best bet to have the following ready:

  • A well defined preparedness plan with maps and alternative routes in place.  Don’t leave unless there is a plan in place.  A person who is prepared to leave and has a set destination in mind is more prepared than the person who is scrambling around their home trying to find items and not even thinking about what their emergency plan will be.
  • A 72 hour bag that is ready to go for the family as well as a bag for any pets.
  • Leave as soon as possible.  Do not wait until they have opened up the contraflow lanes to evacuate.
  • Have some money set aside for an emergency.  Prepare for some ATM machines and banks to be closed.  Example: You finally get on the road and realize you are low on gas.  All the banks and ATMs are closed.  In this scenario, once the gas runs out, you will be stuck  with no money for food, shelter or transportation.
  • Make sure the Bug Out Vehicle (BOV) is well maintained.  Having the proper items to keep it going can be of great value in a disaster situation.  Items such as an oil, extra tire, fix-a-flat, collapsible shovel, etc.

Knowledge is Critical

Knowledge is essential in any type of emergency evacuation scenario.  Imagine how important it would be if  someone had the advantage of having the information to leave 3 hours before everyone else did.  If they were already prepared and ready to go, it would be a huge advantage.

  • Awareness of the different advisory forms to get the most information.  A person does not have to listen to the TV to get information.  There are many types of emergency advisories: radio, police scanners, Internet, twitter, and even a cell phone disaster alert sytem to alert a person at the earliest time possible.  This will give someone a heads up of what it to come.  
  • Know which station on the radio has Emergency Broadcast Stations.

Every minute is critical when bugging out.  If a person is not prepared, then they are losing valuable time.  Using all known communication resources to get information and staying clued in will put a person at a greater advantage than those only listening to one type of communication form.  Gathering information ahead of time of what the possible threat is (flood preparation, hurricane preparation, tornado, societal uprising, etc), and finding ways to avoid them will put a person in a better mind frame when they actually have to come head to head with the threat.   

Know The Signs

Waiting until an evacuation order is issued is considered too late for many people who consider themselves prepared.  Knowing the signs and acting on them is the key to bugging out at the best time.  If a person knows what to look for, they can prepare to leave ahead of the hoard of evacuees. 

Some signs include:

  • When people begin buying emergency food and water supplies.
  • Hearing the news sources talking about a possible threat is the time to begin preparing to leave.
  • Seeing long lines at the bank where people are withdrawing money is a sign that something is up.
  • Long gas lines is also an indicator of people beginning to prepare for a possible evacuation.
  • Increased military and police presence in the streets and the community.
  • Long lines at home improvement stores from poeple trying to buy supplies to prepare homes for disasters, buying generator needs, etc.

If a person is already prepared for such a disaster, they will not have to wait in lines full of stressed out people, not have to fight their way through a grocery store or get into a possible altercation trying to fill their cars with gas.  In times of crises, many are not prepared, and the stress levels are increased exorbitantly.  Everyone has one thing on their mind – getting supplies and getting out.  If a person already has their supplies in order, getting out ahead of everyone will put them at a greater advantage.

Consider the Dangers and Know the Threats

Knowing when to bug out solely depends upon the person and what they are trying to avoid.  It is better to be safe than sorry.  Obviously, evacuating in a high stress situation is absolutely the worst case scenario. Yet, this tends to be the norm for many.  Many believe that bad things cannot happen to them, so why bothering in planning for it?  This mind frame is what leads to dangerous situations. 

Many who wait until the government suggests it is necessary to evacuate will have more of a chance of getting caught in mass chaos, be amongst unprepared and stressed out drivers, and possibly face bouts of crime.  Leaving at the wrong time can put a person and their family into jeopardy.  Seeing the signs and knowing when to bug out will play a pivotal role in evacuating safely.  Not to mention giving a person the advantage of having the right mind set, leaving quickly, and more importantly – safely. 

The information provided is intended to give suggestions of what one may do in an evacuation situation as well as to suggest that people use the information provided by media sources and use their own sound judgement to make a decision to evacuate a city.   This post in no way advises people not to listen to their local governments or relative news sources.  It only suggests that people use the information provided by media sources and to leave when they believe it is pertinent.

Via: readynutrition


Save pagePDF pageEmail pagePrint page
Email, RSS Follow
Share on Tumblr
Uncategorized , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
January 19th, 2013
post by policysup | | 0

20 Things You Will Need to Survive When The Economy Collapses And The Next Great Depression Begins

Today, millions of Americans say that they believe that the United States is on the verge of a major economic collapse and will soon be entering another Great Depression.  But only a small percentage of those same people are prepared for that to happen.  The sad truth is that the vast majority of Americans would last little more than a month on what they have stored up in their homes.  Most of us are so used to running out to the supermarket or to Wal-Mart for whatever we need that we never even stop to consider what would happen if suddenly we were not able to do that.  Already the U.S. economy is starting to stumble about like a drunken frat boy.  All it would take for the entire U.S. to resemble New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina would be for a major war, a terror attack, a deadly pandemic or a massive natural disaster to strike at just the right time and push the teetering U.S. economy over the edge.  So just how would you survive if you suddenly could not rely on the huge international corporate giants to feed, clothe and supply you and your family?  Do you have a plan?

Unless you already live in a cave or you are a complete and total mindless follower of the establishment media, you should be able to see very clearly that our society is more vulnerable now than it ever has been.  This year there have been an unprecedented number of large earthquakes around the world and volcanoes all over the globe are awakening.  You can just take a look at what has happened in Haiti and in Iceland to see how devastating a natural disaster can be.  Not only that, but we have a world that is full of lunatics in positions of power, and if one of them decides to set off a nuclear, chemical or biological weapon in a major city it could paralyze an entire region.  War could erupt in the Middle East at literally any moment, and if it does the price of oil will double or triple (at least) and there is the possibility that much of the entire world could be drawn into the conflict.  Scientists tell us that a massive high-altitude EMP (electromagnetic pulse) blast could send large portions of the United States back to the stone age in an instant.  In addition, there is the constant threat that the outbreak of a major viral pandemic (such as what happened with the 1918 Spanish Flu) could kill tens of millions of people around the globe and paralyze the economies of the world.

But even without all of that, the truth is that the U.S. economy is going to collapse.  So just think of what will happen if one (or more) of those things does happen on top of all the economic problems that we are having.

Are you prepared?

The following is a list of 20 things you and your family will need to survive when the economy totally collapses and the next Great Depression begins….

#1) Storable Food

Food is going to instantly become one of the most valuable commodities in existence in the event of an economic collapse.  If you do not have food you are not going to survive.  Most American families could not last much longer than a month on what they have in their house right now.  So what about you?  If disaster struck right now, how long could you survive on what you have?  The truth is that we all need to start storing up food.  If you and your family run out of food, you will suddenly find yourselves competing with the hordes of hungry people who are looting the stores and roaming the streets looking for something to eat.

Of course you can grow your own food, but that is going to take time.  So you need to have enough food stored up until the food that you plant has time to grow.  But if you have not stored up any seeds you might as well forget it.  When the economy totally collapses, the remaining seeds will disappear very quickly.  So if you think that you are going to need seeds, now is the time to get them.

#2) Clean Water

Most people can survive for a number of weeks without food, but without water you will die in just a few days.  So where would you get water if the water suddenly stopped flowing out of your taps?  Do you have a plan?  Is there an abundant supply of clean water near your home? Would you be able to boil water if you need to?

Besides storing water and figuring out how you are going to gather water if society breaks down, another thing to consider is water purification tablets.  The water you are able to gather during a time of crisis may not be suitable for drinking.  So you may find that water purification tablets come in very, very handy.

#3) Shelter

You can’t sleep on the streets, can you?  Well, some people will be able to get by living on the streets, but the vast majority of us will need some form of shelter to survive for long.  So what would you do if you and your family lost your home or suddenly were forced from your home?  Where would you go?

The best thing to do is to come up with several plans.  Do you have relatives that you can bunk with in case of emergency?  Do you own a tent and sleeping bags if you had to rough it?  If one day everything hits the fan and you and your family have to “bug out” somewhere, where would that be?  You need to have a plan.

#4) Warm Clothing

If you plan to survive for long in a nightmare economic situation, you are probably going to need some warm, functional clothing.  If you live in a cold climate, this is going to mean storing up plenty of blankets and cold weather clothes.  If you live in an area where it rains a lot, you will need to be sure to store up some rain gear.  If you think you may have to survive outdoors in an emergency situation, make sure that you and your family have something warm to put on your heads.  Someday after the economy has collapsed and people are scrambling to survive, a lot of folks are going to end up freezing to death.  In fact, in the coldest areas it is actually possible to freeze to death in your own home.  Don’t let that happen to you.

#5) An Axe

Staying along the theme of staying warm, you may want to consider investing in a good axe.  In the event of a major emergency, gathering firewood will be a priority.  Without a good tool to cut the wood with that will be much more difficult.

#6) Lighters Or Matches

You will also want something to start a fire with.  If you can start a fire, you can cook food, you can boil water and you can stay warm.  So in a true emergency situation, how do you plan to start a fire?  By rubbing sticks together?  Now is the time to put away a supply of lighters or matches so that you will be prepared when you really need them.

In addition, you may want to consider storing up a good supply of candles.  Candles come in quite handy whenever the electricity goes out, and in the event of a long-term economic nightmare we will all see why our forefathers relied on candles so much.

#7) Hiking Boots Or Comfortable Shoes

When you ask most people to list things necessary for survival, this is not the first or the second thing that comes to mind.  But having hiking boots or very comfortable and functional shoes will be absolutely critical.  You may very well find yourself in a situation where you and your family must walk everywhere you want to go.  So how far do you think you will get in high heels?  You will want footwear that you would feel comfortable walking in for hours if necessary.  You will also want footwear that will last a long time, because when the economy truly collapses you may not be able to run out to the shoe store and get what you need at that point.

#8) A Flashlight And/Or Lantern

When the power goes off in your home, what is the first thing that you grab?  Just think about it.  A flashlight or a lantern of course.  In a major emergency, a flashlight or a lantern is going to be a necessity – especially if you need to go anywhere at night.

Solar powered or “crank style” flashlights or lanterns will probably be best during a long-term emergency.  If you have battery-powered units you will want to begin storing up lots and lots of batteries.

#9) A Radio

If a major crisis does hit the United States, what will you and your family want?  Among other things, you will all want to know what in the world is going on.  A radio can be an invaluable tool for keeping up with the news.

Once again, solar powered or “crank style” radios will probably work best for the long term.  A battery-powered until would work as well – but only for as long as your batteries are able to last.

#10) Communication Equipment

When things really hit the fan you are going to want to communicate with your family and friends.  You will also want to be able to contact an ambulance or law enforcement if necessary.  Having an emergency cell phone is great, but it may or may not work during a time of crisis.  The Internet also may or may not be available.  Be sure to have a plan (whether it be high-tech or low-tech) for staying in communication with others during a major emergency.

#11) A Swiss Army Knife

If you have ever owned a Swiss Army knife you probably already know how incredibly handy they can be.  It can be a very valuable and versatile tool.  In a true survival situation, a Swiss Army knife can literally do dozens of different things for you.  Make sure that you have at least one stored up for emergencies.

#12) Personal Hygiene Items 

While these may not be absolute “essentials”, the truth is that life will get very unpleasant very quickly without them.  For example, what would you do without toilet paper?  Just think about it.  Imagine that you just finished your last roll of toilet paper and now you can’t get any more.  What would you do?

The truth is that soap, toothbrushes, toothpaste, shampoo, toilet paper and other hygiene products are things that we completely take for granted in society today.  So what would happen if we could not go out and buy them any longer?

#13) A First Aid Kit And Other Medical Supplies

One  a more serious note, you may not be able to access a hospital or a doctor during a major crisis.  In your survival supplies, be absolutely certain that you have a good first aid kit and any other medical supplies that you think you may need.

#14) Extra Gasoline

There may come a day when gasoline is rationed or is simply not available at all.  If that happens, how will you get around?  Be certain to have some extra gasoline stored away just in case you find yourself really needing to get somewhere someday.

#15) A Sewing Kit

If you were not able to run out and buy new clothes for you and your family, what would you do?  Well, you would want to repair the clothes that you have and make them last as long as possible.  Without a good sewing kit that will be very difficult to do.

#16) Self-Defense Equipment

Whether it is pepper spray to fend off wild animals or something more “robust” to fend off wild humans, millions of Americans will one day be thankful that they have something to defend themselves with.

#17) A Compass

In the event of a major emergency, you and your family may find yourselves having to be on the move.  If you are in a wilderness area, it will be very hard to tell what direction you are heading without a compass.  It is always a good idea to have at least one compass stored up.

#18) A Hiking Backpack

If you and your family suddenly have to “bug out”, what will you carry all of your survival supplies in?  Having a good hiking backpack or “survival bag” for everyone in your family is extremely important.  If something happened in the city where you live and you suddenly had to “go”, what would you put your most important stuff in?  How would you carry it all if you had to travel by foot?  These are very important things to think about.

#19) A Community

During a long-term crisis, it is those who are willing to work together that will have the best chance of making it.  Whether it is your family, your friends, a church or a local group of people that you know, make sure that you have some people that you can rely on and work together with in the event that everything hits the fan.  Loners are going to have a really hard time of surviving for long.

#20) A Backup Plan

Lastly, it is always, always, always important to have a backup plan for everything.

If someone comes in and steals all the food that you have stored up, what are you going to do?

If travel is restricted and your can’t get to your “bug out” location immediately do you have a Plan B?

If you have built your house into an impregnable survival fortress but circumstances force you to leave do you have an alternate plan?

The truth is that crisis situations rarely unfold just as we envision.  It is important to be flexible and to be ready with backup plans when disaster strikes.

You don’t want to end up like the folks in New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina.  You don’t want to have to rely on the government to take care of you if something really bad happens.

Right now the U.S. strategic grain reserve contains only enough wheat to make half a loaf of bread for each of the approximately 300 million people in the United States.

How long do you think that is going to last?

Now is the time to get ready.

Now is the time to prepare.

The United States economy is going to collapse and incredibly hard times are coming.

Will you be able to survive when it happens?

Via: theeconomiccollapseblog


Save pagePDF pageEmail pagePrint page
Email, RSS Follow
Share on Tumblr
Uncategorized , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
January 10th, 2013
post by policysup | | 0

Choosing An Evacuation Vehicle

   If the U.S. were to suffer a catastrophic event you will want to evacuate as soon as possible. Unless we suffer an event that destroys your local highways you should be able to travel on these roads. This means one of your most valuable assets will be a reliable means of transportation. For most of us this will be the family vehicle. Although the vehicle that you drive may not be the perfect vehicle for evacuation it may very well be the only vehicle for many of us. If this happens to be the case then you have to use what you have. Many of us cannot afford to go out and purchase another vehicle primarily for the purpose of evacuation. The type vehicles your Group have will play a part in determining the location of your evacuation point. You do not want to choose a location that will be difficult or impossible to get to with the vehicles you have. This means taking a number of factors into consideration:

• Weather conditions: You could very well be required to evacuate in the middle of winter when travel will be difficult due to snow and ice conditions. You could also be required to evacuate during a period of heavy rain where travel to your evacuation point may be difficult due to mud or high water.

• Terrain: As with the weather the type of terrain you have to cross should be determined by the type vehicles the Group will be traveling in. Rough un-improved roads will, in most cases, require four wheel drive with high ground clearance.

• Distance: Gas may be hard to come by; it would be wise to have an evacuation point that can be reached on one tank of gas. Otherwise you will have to have a cache of gas in route or extra gas stored at your house. If you will be caching gasoline then make sure it is in the proper container. It would be very dangerous for you as well as others to bury a can of gasoline or diesel.

• Route: It would be unwise to have an evacuation point requiring you to travel through a large populated area or over bridges.

   These things must be considered when choosing an evacuation point; after all, it will do little good to a have a stocked evacuation point and be unable to get there.

   Other than choosing an evacuation point that is obtainable in your vehicle, the next important point is to maintain your vehicle. Again, it will do little good to have an evacuation vehicle that won’t crank when you need it or if it breaks down in route. This not only means you will have to keep the vehicle in good mechanical condition but also having fuel. This means keeping at least a half tank of fuel at all times. This should also include keeping at least ten gallons and maybe more fuel in fuel cans that you can quickly get to.

   Let’s look at another scenario. Let’s assume you can afford to purchase another vehicle. This can be a secondary vehicle or your primary vehicle.

   If this is to be your family’s primary vehicle then a four wheel drive pick-up truck or SUV would be the ideal vehicle. A vehicle such as this is an ideal family vehicle, then add an aggressive set of tires and you have a vehicle that should be able to reach most evacuation points.

   I emphasize a four wheel drive, because again you should plan for the worst case scenario. When you have to evacuate you want to be able to go regardless of road conditions. Some roads may be damaged, some may be closed. If necessary you want to be able to travel cross country.

   Now let’s look at the best case scenario; let’s assume you can afford to purchase a secondary vehicle. You will use this vehicle as a second vehicle but equip it to be used for evacuation purposes. The most versatile vehicle would, again, be a four wheel drive truck or jeep.

   Let’s look at a couple of important points. First, assuming you are going to purchase a vehicle primarily for evacuation purposes you should, again choose a vehicle with the worst case scenario in mind. Meaning you would have to consider the possibility of an “EMP” attack. As you know in the event of an “EMP” attack all electronics will be destroyed. This of course will include all motor vehicles produced before about 1970. After this computers became more and more common, until todays vehicles are loaded with computers.

   My reasons for choosing a pre-1970 vehicle are not only because of the possibility of an “EMP” but also because of maintenance and repair. Beginning about 1970 it has become more and more difficult for an individual to maintain and repair their vehicles. Everything on the vehicle is computer operated. You need expensive diagnostic equipment in order to tune the engine. Most if not all axillary equipment as well as most accessories are not repairable. Items such as seats, windows even mirrors are electric powered. The same is true for starters, alternators, fuel injectors, ignition parts and etc. These parts must be replaced rather than repaired. With most pre-1970 vehicles you could perform most repairs with every day hand tools. An old saying was that with a pair of pliers and a piece of bailing wire a good mechanic could make any car run. Although a little exaggerated this was not far from the truth. If you had a set of spark plugs, points, and condenser you could make most vehicles run.

   Since there were no SUV’s before 1970 I would choose either a jeep or a truck. There were panel trucks and vans, which would work depending on personal preference and need. In either case, your vehicle of choice should be four wheel drive. The jeep is a relatively small vehicle, although there was a jeep truck. These vehicles will give you the added advantage of extra cargo space plus, in most case more ground clearance. Ground clearance plus four wheel drive with an aggressive set of tires will allow you to travel over rough terrain. This will also allow you to travel through mud and snow. Although not necessary, you add a winch to one of these vehicles and they become almost unstoppable.

   Although you may want to modify the running gear to some extent, other than that I would modify little else. You would not want to upgrade the electrical system in that this would defeat the purpose you have the vehicle in the first place.

   There are a few things to consider and remember when rigging out a truck to be used as an evacuation vehicle. Of course the truck will  perform perfectly well if it is brought back to original condition, with original equipment. There are however modifications that will increase its capabilities such as a winch, spotlights, C.B. radio and etc. This will mostly depend on personal preference. I mean if you have the money and desire this would be really good excuse to build a really nice truck.

Regardless of how much you may modify the vehicle; I would recommend a few basic requirements for the vehicle:

• If a truck choose ½ ton, long wheel base, this will give you much more cargo space.

• Six cylinder, or small V-8 engine. This will give you much better gas mileage, as well as easier maintenance and repair.

• Manual transmission, this way the truck can be pushed to start in the event the starter fails or the battery is dead.

• One or two barrel carburetor, much easier to adjust and in most cases better gas mileage.

• If you choose a truck install a camper shell, this will enable you to carry more passengers and/or cargo if necessary.

• Aggressive mud and/or snow tires depending on location.

• Trailer hitch.

There are items that should be stored in a tool box kept on the truck:

• Hand Tools

• High lift jack

• Tow Strap

• Spare Fan Belt

• Spare generator belt

• Set of spark plugs

• Spare fuel pump

• Set of tire chains

• Spare generator

• Spare carburetor kit

• Spare radiator hoses

• Spare spark plug wires and ends

• Assortment of wire terminals

• Assortment of hose clamps

• Spare thermostat

• At least 4 quarts of oil

• Starter fluid

• Good set of jumper cables

• Tire chains

• Spare fuses

• Shovel

   If you or a member of a Group one of the rules should be that everyone should have a vehicle in good repair and capable of reaching your evacuation point. Now having said that here are exceptions to all rules. There will be situations where it may be necessary or even advantageous, for whatever reason, to share ride. In this case it well be very important to have a plan. Everyone should be well aware of who is going with whom. You surely don’t wait until you are evacuating to figure who is riding with whom.

   Now, once you have reached your evacuation point you need to know what you are going to do with the Group’s vehicles. For the most part this will depend on whether you drive directly to the evacuation point or if you are drive as close as possible and then hike in.

   First of all as stated in “Out Of Harm’s Way” I would, if possible have chosen an evacuation point you have to hike into. The reason for this is because if you can drive to the evacuation point other folks can also. This is a source of trouble. If people find a Group of folks that are doing well they will either want to join or, even worse, take over the camp. Most of the people that will do this lack the ambition to hike very far. The further you are off the beaten trail the better.

If you leave the vehicles behind I would suggest the following procedure:

• Drive as close to the evacuation point and unload the vehicles. Then drive the vehicles at least five miles back down the road and leave them. Scatter them out and hide them as best as possible,

• Before leaving them make sure you remove any thing that may identify you.

• Remove all the gasoline.

• Remove the rotary cap.

• Remove the battery and take to the camp for emergency radio power at camp. (The battery can be removed when you unload for camp, just keep the vehicle running.)

   These precautions are to make it as difficult as possible for anyone to find. This will also make it impossible for anyone to start the vehicle and drive away. Chances are if anyone happens to find these vehicles, they will in all likelihood, destroy it or at least damage them. In either case, the vehicle will have served its purpose by getting you to your evacuation point.

Let’s look at the advantages in buying a pre-1970 truck:

   First, since the truck will be at least forty years old it should be relatively cheap, of course this will depend on the condition of the truck. If the truck is to be bought primarily for an evacuation vehicle it does not need to be cosmetically perfect. However, if you should happen to need a dependable truck you can of course buy a pre-1970 truck completely reconditioned in like new condition. It simply depends on your needs, your wants and your pocket book. You can spend as much or as little as you wish.

   The second and third reasons are due to the same thing and that is, a truck per-1970 will be computer free. It will have a distributor, breaker point ignition system, carburetor and manual fuel pump, and windows will be manually operated. This will mean you will have a vehicle that needs no special equipment or computers in order to tune it up or diagnose an engine problem. This in turn means you will be capable of maintaining and repairing the vehicle yourself. To tune this engine all you need, other than common hand tools is a set of feeler gauges, a timing light and the specs. Another important point is that the auxiliary equipment found on a pre-1970 vehicle is repairable. Items such as a starter, generator, and carburetor, can be repaired where on newer vehicles this auxiliary equipment is sealed and non-repairable.

   With all the newer model vehicles you can perform no maintenance on any part of the vehicle without special equipment.

   A pre-1970 vehicle is immune to EMP or electromagnetic pulse damage. This is due to the fact that there are no computers in these vehicles. In the event the U.S. suffers a successful “EMP” attack all of the newer vehicles will be rendered useless by the bomb.

Via: preparingtosurvive


Save pagePDF pageEmail pagePrint page
Email, RSS Follow
Share on Tumblr
Uncategorized , , , , , , , , , ,
December 13th, 2012
post by policysup | | 0

Be Ready with Vehicle 72 Hour Kits

Words such as “extreme misfortune, ruin, and tragedy” are often used in conjunction with the word “disaster.”  It is a fearful word that often catches a person off guard and unprepared when they are in the middle of it.  But the word “evacuate” conjures up thoughts of mass chaos, confusion, crowded highway systems and fear.  This word is usually linked with natural disasters such as hurricanes, flooding and fires.  If a disastrous scenario occurs, having a kit for your vehicle, as well as having a 72 hour kit for each person in your family will ensure that all basic needs are met.

So what happens if you are in your car when a mandatory evacuation comes to order?  Would you be prepared to leave with only the items in your car?

What Is a 72 Hour Kit?

A 72 hour kit is essentially filled with items that will meet your basic survival needs (food, water, safety, shelter) for at least 3 days’ time.  The items placed in the kits should be light weight and functional so that, if need be, carrying the kit will not be a strain due to unnecessary items.  Initially, the most important part of preparing for an event is to have a well thought out a plan.  This plan should be in place before you evacuate.

To prepare a 72 hour kit for your vehicle, use a plastic container  and fill it with:

  •  3 Day Supply of Food
  • Water – 3 Day Supply
  • Water Purification Tablets
  • Blankets
  • Emergency Shelter
  • Flashlight or a Light Source
  • Extra Batteries
  • Rain Poncho
  • Work Gloves
  • Knife or Multi Purpose Tool
  • Chains For Tires
  • Small Shovel or Collapsible Shovel
  • Rope
  • Air Compressor (to air tires)
  • Fix-a-Flat
  • Extra Tire
  • Waterproof Matches
  • Signaling Device such as a Flare, Mirror, Whistle or Light Stick
  • Extra Clothes compatible to the season you are in.
  • Hand and Foot Warmers (optional but very effective if you need to be in the cold weather for a long period of time)
  • 2 Extra Pairs of Socks
  • Extra Jacket for Layering
  • Toiletries (Toilet Paper, Soap, etc.)
  • First Aid Kit
  • Survival Book to Look to for Survival Information
  • Maps and navigation devices (compass, GPS device, etc)
  • 5-10 gallons of extra gasoline

Having a 72 hour kit for your vehicle is a way to curb the feelings associated with being unprepared for disasters.  If packed properly, a 72 hour kit will give you everything you need to keep you alive for 3 days.   Having one of these for your car can be used in the case of an emergency evacuation, or if your car stalls in a remote location where there is no way to signal to get help.  Adding a few items to the trunk for one of these unforeseen disasters or events will not only help you prepare, but also keep you safe and focused on finding a solution in the case that you find yourself in one of these situations.

Via: readynutrition


Save pagePDF pageEmail pagePrint page
Email, RSS Follow
Share on Tumblr
Uncategorized , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Newer Entries