Category Archive: Build it yourself

March 5th, 2015
post by policysup | | 0

DIY Emergency Lights from Solar Yard Lights

When it comes to emergency lighting, flashlights and lanterns rule.  The problem, however, is that they require a power source, be it batteries, propane, or some other type of fuel.  There are candles, of course, but candles do eventually burn out, plus, in some environments and especially around children, candles can represent a safety hazard.

The option of choice, for many, is solar lighting.  Indeed, I have a SunBell that gives off a lot light and is easily recharged, even on a cloudy day.  That marvelous piece of gear comes at a price though.  At, $70, it is well worth the cost for one but just how many can I afford?  (In all fairness, the SunBell also charges my phone and other portable devices.)


With that introduction, today I am going to show you how to make your own DIY emergency lights from solar yard lights.  This is not a new concept and many of you are undoubtedly already using these lights yourself.

Before you yawn off though, let me explain that in this DIY, we will be adding a switch to those ubiquitous solar yard lights, so that once the lights are charged up, you can turn them on then off again, thus mitigating setting them out in the sun each day.

How to Make Emergency Lights from Solar Yard Lights

Using inexpensive solar yard lights for emergency lighting inside your home is an easy deal.  Charge them up in the sun, bring them inside, and you have light. The problem, however, is that once the activation tab is pulled on the lights, they have to be put in sunlight each day to ensure that the battery is charged up and ready to go during an emergency. This is not a practical solution.

To get around this, some people do not pull the activation tab until the light is actually needed in an emergency. This essentially is a onetime use. Again, not a practical solution.  We are going to solve this conundrum by installing a micro switch that can turn solar lights on or off whenever we want.

To being with, you are going to need a solar yard light.  There are various makes and models of solar yard lights available.  In this article, I am using a 1 lumen light purchased at Wal-Mart but you can find comparable solar lights just about anywhere, including your local hardware store or Amazon.


You are also going to need some “Micro Switches”.  If you can not find them locally, they can be purchased from Amazon (see these) or from eBay.  When shopping on eBay, search for “On Off Mini Push Button Switch for Electric Torch.” Usually you can buy 10 micro switches for $1.99 and that includes shipping. They are shipped directly to you from Hong Kong, so allow some lead time to get your micro switches.  Amazon is faster but still relatively inexpensive.

Step One

First remove the screws holding the base plate to the solar unit. There are 3 screws on the light shown.


Step Two

Carefully clamp the base plate in a vise. Drill a hole through the base plate, slightly larger than the diameter of the round part of the switch base. A ¼” drill bit was used on the light being modified. It is easier when you first drill a small pilot hole.



Step Three

Attach the micro switch to the base plate. Shoe Goo (good to have in your preps regardless), works very well. A hot glue gun would also work well.

Turn the switch so that one of the leads is as close to the small circuit board as practical. If necessary, trim the glue the manufacture used above the hole as shown so that the switch mounts flat to the base plate.

Step Four

Locate the wire that goes to the negative end of the battery. Cut this wire, leaving enough length to attach the wire coming from the circuit board to the closest terminal of the micro switch. Carefully remove enough of the wire insulation to expose a short length of bare wire.


Step Five

Locate some wire with about the same gauge as the wire cut. Don’t worry about the color of the wire as no one will ever see it. Solder about 1″ of additional wire to the wire coming from the ground end of the battery. You can insulate the wire splice if you wish with Shoe Goo or other cement.

Next, solder both ends of the cut wire to the micro switch terminals.


Step Six

Now you are ready to test the operation of the micro switch. Pull the actuating tab. The LED light should turn on and off when you toggle the micro switch


Bend the micro switch terminal connected to the battery ground and reposition the wire so that they fit inside of the solar unit. Lastly, place the base plate back on to the solar unit being careful not to allow any of the wires to be placed over the screw holes. Re-install the screws that attach the base plate to the solar unit.  You are done!

Using Your MacGyver’ed Solar Light

When you want to turn your modified solar lights on or off, simply push the micro switch button.

When turned on, you can expect it to provide light for up to eight hours.  Keep in mind, though, that lights having only 1 lumen do not put out a lot of light,  That said, if you place several in a dark room, you can see well enough to easily move about without running into things.  Also, if you turn the lights upside down, they stand up very well

Something to remember is that you will need to turn the light on when you take the light outside to recharge it in the sun. Likewise, turn the light off when you remove it from the sun light. The beauty of this is that when the solar light is not in use, the battery will stay charged for a long time before needing recharging.

Here is one last additional tip. If you have a lot of lights to charge up outside at once, create a charging stand by drilling holes in a board to hold the lights when the bottom of the solar light has been removed.

The Final Word

To be truly prepared, we all need options as well as redundancy.  The beauty of these DIY indoor emergency lights is that they are inexpensive if not downright cheap, and can be used over and over again without reliance on an outside power source.  In addition, although they do need to be charged in the sun, most of the better quality yard lights will also charge up in the shade.  They just need more time.

 

Start now to make sure you are staying prepared.

 

 

Via: backdoorsurvival


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February 14th, 2015
post by policysup | | 0

Homemade Batteries: Made of Vinegar, Lemon, Lime, Salt, Water

 

Homemade batteries! 5 DIY batteries to power lights, clocks, calculators even Buzzers!.

Video shows how to make Five Homemade Batteries (vinegar, lemon juice, lime juice, saltwater and tapwater batteries) and shows full details on power output of each (amps/volts) in side by side testing.

Was able to run a clock, several LED lights, a calculator, a tea light candle, even an electric Buzzer! (Almost anything that runs on a button-cell battery can be run on a water/juice/vinegar battery). *note the saltwater battery actually produces less volts and amps than the freshwater battery. *to run a buzzer, lemon juice is the best (followed by lime). Make sure to use at least five cells and use large (2 1/2″ or larger wood screws) as well as a good amount of copper wire.

Some details: *lemon juice was 25% concentrate. lime was 25.5%. vinegar was 5% acidity. copper wire is from an old extension cord. wood screws are #12 2 1/2″ flat head phillips by everbilt.

 

 

Start now to make sure you are staying prepared.

 

 

Via: survivalist

 


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November 4th, 2014
post by policysup | | 0

How to Make a Rope Out of Plastic Bags

Guest post by Zac T.

————————————

You wander from aisle to aisle, flashlight in hand, down what used to be your local tool supply store.

When the first case showed up over the mountain about three months ago, most of the stores in town were looted pretty heavily. This place is certainly no exception.

“Oh Lord, please please please,” you whisper underneath your breath as you finally come across the aisle where the rope should be.

You’ve been bugging out since the city became too dangerous to sleep in, and last night the old rope you salvaged for your tarp tent snapped in a scuffle with a falling branch. You need new rope. Without it, it looks like you’ll be sleeping underneath a tarp blanket.

You walk up to the shelves. Your gut drops.

“Oh noooo,” you mutter. “Not here, too.”

Every last rope is gone.

You stuff a handful of nails in your pocket on your way out as you continue your search elsewhere for that elusive length of rope.

What do you do when this becomes a reality?

In a survival situation, a good length of rope can mean the difference between life or death. People are smarter than you think and recognize this as well. As a result, post-disaster, rope is going to be VERY hard to come by. Yes, you are going to need food, you are going to need medical supplies, and you are going to need shelter, water, weapons, and the like. However, how are you going to hang your food in a bear bag if you bug out? How are you going to fasten a splint to your daughter’s twisted ankle? How are you going to suspend your tarp A-frame tent, bring supplies up to a tree-house, restrain an attacker, bundle your supplies, et cetera? The list could go on and on.

You are going to need rope and lots of it!

One good rope can mean the difference between surviving or forever being lost to the elements. Without rope you can’t hang a bear bag, tie down supplies, set up a tarp, secure a boat, make a splint, and a host of other things that could come in very handy in a survival situation. Luckily for you, however, you are about to learn that a quality length of strong rope can be made out of an everyday household item that I can essentially guarantee you’ve been stockpiling without even knowing.

PLASTIC BAGS.

I’m talking about those annoying little guys you pick up at the store EVERY time you shop for groceries, clothes, tools, or anything else, and then you store in your kitchen stuffed into each other. Yep. Those pesky boogers can be made into an incredibly strong length of rope. This is true, if you know what you’re doing, of course.

So, how do you do this? By following these six simple steps:

Step 1 – Collect Bags

If you want to make a plastic bag rope, you are going to need a lot of plastic bags. Gather as many as you can get your hands on, and lay them flat against the floor so that they are all stacked on top of each other in the same orientation with the handles at the top.

Try to smooth out as many of the wrinkles as you can. Ideally, you want your bags to look just like they do when they’re still stuck on the merry-go-round at Kroger. They are all flattened out and aligned almost perfectly there.

Step 2 – Make Half-Bags

Grab a very sharp pair of scissors and cut your stack of paper bags from the very middle of the base of the bags (where all the food rests when the bag is full) in a straight vertical line to the middle of the top of the bags (at the bottom of the U shape that the handles on both sides of the top form).

I’ve never been able to cut more than two at a time here, so it’s going to take a little while, depending on the size you want your rope to be. Lay out two bags on the ground, place your foot in the bottom right corner, and using your left hand to keep the other side taut, use scissors to glide the cut up the middle of the bags.

If you try to actually “scissor” your way up the bag, you’re going to end up with a pretty jagged cut. You really do need to do all that you can to keep the bags taut so that the scissors glide to the top.

Repeat this for all of the bags.

Step 3 – Poke Holes (a lot of them)

Now you have two little stacks of half-bags. Take a half-bag, and you’ll notice that there is a seam alongside the side of the bag. At the bottom, there should be a cone-like end to the seam within the bag. You are going to poke a hole that you can fit two fingers in about two inches from this cone seam.

So, if you have the bottom of the half bag facing you, the hole is going to be two inches away from the bottom of the side. Do this for all of the bags.

Step 4 – Girth Hitch the Bags Together Into Two Strands

Now you have a whole lot of half bags with holes in the side of them. You’re going to take one half-bag’s handle (BAG A), and thread it through the hole you tore on a second half bag (BAG B). Then make BAG A thread through its own handle so that the two bags are now connected with a knot.

Pull the bags tight to girth hitch the bags. Make it a snug fit. Do this by pulling on the bag close to the knot. By pulling farther away you’re going to stretch the bag’s middle and weaken your rope.

Make two strands of even length doing this.

Step 5 – Braid the Rope

Here comes the fun part.

You’ve already made two even length strands of half-bags. Now what you need to do is to take both strands and hang them by their middle from something, so that you end up with four even length strands. I, personally, think that this works infinitely better if you can hang the strands from a ceiling rafter (I use a punching bag stand), but around the back of a chair leg will work fine as well.

By hanging the bag strands from someplace higher than your head, you can avoid a lot of unnecessary bending over and a sore back. I’ve found it takes twice as long to finish the thing when you’re on the floor as well.

You need to braid the strands together to make a strong, durable rope. I’m going to explain it below; however, if you need a visual, resort to this video:


This is much easier than you think.

You can see that you have four strands in front of you. If you held two strands in each hand, you would have a “LEFT”, and a “RIGHT” strand in each hand. You need to take the two “right” strands, and braid them over the two “left” strands.

Good job. You did it.

Now you still have four strands in front of you, and some of them are crossed over others. Now you have two new “middle” strands between your two hands. Take the left “middle” strand and braid it over the right “middle” strand.

You’re going to repeat that same pattern over and over and over again until your rope is finished. Two rights over lefts, middle left over right.

Make sure that you pull your braid work together tight at this step. The tighter you can make your braid, the stronger your rope is going to be. This is plastic, after all. By ensuring tight braids, the stuff will have less of a chance to stretch.

In Conclusion

For the rope I made for this article, I started off with 21 grocery store bags and I ended up with a 9′ rope in about 30-40 minutes. So, if you want an 18′ rope, you’re going to need 42 bags. A 32′ rope requires 84 bags, and so on down the line.

Getting the hang of the braiding pattern is always the toughest part. Once you can work through the first two feet or so of rope, your brain will instantly pick up on the pattern and you can roll through the whole project pretty quickly.

I decided to do a quick tensile strength test of my rope, as well. It ended up holding 55 pounds worth of dumbbells quite satisfactorily. I ran out of dumbbells after that, but I and the crack in my basement floor can certainly tell you it won’t hold your bodyweight. (I’m 160 pounds.)

Would I use this to rappel from something? Nope. There’s no way.

However, if you needed a way to tie down supplies, make a splint, hang a bear bag, or set up a tarp, this works just as well as the real deal.

As mentioned before, the tighter you can braid your threads and the sturdier of a bag you can find, the stronger your rope is going to end up being.

Also, make sure to keep this thing away from direct sunlight for long periods of time. Ultraviolet light weakens the plastic and will ultimately result in a broken rope. Because this thing is made out of plastic, there is going to be a fair amount of stretch to the rope when it’s loaded down. A little stretch won’t hurt anything; it’s similar to a bungee cord. However, once the weight overloads the tensile strength, the rope is going to stretch past its limits and snap.

You’re just about outside the doors when you remember something:

“How could I forget!” you exclaim.

“I can use plastic bags!”

You read how to do this in an article online, pre-plague.

You’re happy. No need to be a tarp burrito tonight.

 

Start now to make sure you are staying prepared.

 

 

Via :  survivalblog


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October 30th, 2014
post by policysup | | 0

How to Build a Rotating Canned Food Shelf

Storing canned food in your kitchen cabinets is an inefficient use of space and you will often find old cans in the back. This easy-to-build shelf system will solve the problem by rotating the cans.

The cost is a small fraction of the price of retail canned food systems. There are many variations so modify the plans to suit your needs and abilities.

Step 1

Decide the size and number of shelves you need. This article will cover a 5-shelf system that is 32 inches wide, 24 inches deep and 64 inches tall.

Step 2

Cut the plywood on a table saw or with a circular saw.

  • Cut one full sheet in half length-wise. From each half, cut a shelf at 32 inches (should leave 64 inches for the sides).
  • Cut the other full sheet in half length-wise also. Cut each half in thirds at 32 inches each.
  • Cut the half-sheet of plywood at 32 inches. Cut the 32×48 piece in half (24×32). Set the remaining 16×48 piece aside for later. You should have 2-24×64 and 10-24×32.

Step 3

Using a router and straight edge, rout slots into the sides 3/4 inch wide and 1/2 inch deep. (An alternative is to attach rails that the shelves will rest on. The slot method is stronger and will not interfere with the rolling cans.)

  • The shelves need to have a 1:12 slope (1 inch drop for each 12 inches run).
  • For standard cans, the distance from the top of the input shelf to the top of the corresponding output shelf is 8 inches.
  • For standard cans, the distance from the top of the input shelf, to the top of the next output shelf is 4 inches.
  • For standard cans, the input shelf is 3.5 inches shorter than the output shelf.
  • For larger cans, add 1 inch to these dimensions.
  • Draw outlines for all slots.

Step 4

Trim the shelves. The finished outside width of the shelf system will be 32 inches. The shelves will fit in a slot 1/4 inch deep. Therefore, the width of the shelves is actually 31 inches. Each input shelf also needs to be trimmed on the back to allow a space for the can to drop. For standard cans, this gap needs to be 3.5 inches.

 

Step 5

Lay one side flat on the ground with the slots facing up. Insert the shelves into the slots and place the other side on top.

Step 6

Drive 2 inch screws through the side and into the edge of the shelf. Put two screws in each shelf.

Step 7

Turn the unit over and drive screws in this side also.

Step 8

Turn the unit over so the back is facing up. Attach the pieces that were cut from the input shelves to prevent the cans from falling off the back.

Step 9

From the 16×48 scrap plywood, cut 5 pieces 2×32 inch. Turn the unit over so the front is facing up. Attach the 2×32 inch pieces to block the cans from falling out the front.

Step 10

With the remaining plywood and/or additional scrap you have laying around, build a base that the casters will attach to. Stand the unit upright and attach it to the base.

Step 11

Decide the configuration of cans that you need. Each row will need to be about 1/2 inch wider than the can. On the table saw, rip 1/4 inch-wide strips from plywood, MDF, or dimensional lumber. MDF and lumber work best. Attach them to the shelves with wood glue.

Step 12

One problem you may have is the cans getting misaligned when they drop down. A solution for this is to add a divider connecting the row dividing strips, filling the gap. Cut cardboard in a trapezoidal shape to fit over the two row dividers. Cut out the center material of the cardboard and glue the flaps to the row dividers.

Step 13

Another problem occurs when the gap is too large for the cans. The can can get blocked, preventing other cans from dropping down. A solution for this problem is to glue wedges at the back of the lower shelf. This will cause the can to roll forward before the next one locks it in. The wedges can be cut from the same material used for the row dividers. They should be large enough to move the can forward.

Step 14

Start using the rotating canned food shelf. Add labels to the front of each row to identify the contents and load cans in the top portion of each shelf.

 

Start now to make sure you are staying prepared.

 

 

Via: Wikihow.com


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October 18th, 2014
post by policysup | | 0

How to Make a Simple Snare

Knowing how to make a snare can be very helpful in an emergency situation. Imagine that you are stranded in the woods and need to find food quickly. If you have some snare wire in your backpack or emergency kit, you can easily catch some dinner.

Follow these instructions to learn how to create a snare in order to catch some food!

Location
The first thing you’ll need to determine is where the prey is located. It’s not going to do you any good to set a trap where no animal will be.

You’ll want to look for signs of animals like tracks, droppings, plants that have been eaten, flattened vegetation, etc. The best area is probably around feeding areas or watering holes.

Noose and Loop
The simple snare is the basic tie behind any trap. Ideally, the animal would walk straight through the loop and set off the trap. You can start creating a simple snare by following these instructions:

Wrap the end of the wire a few times around a stick.
  Twist the ends of the wire together and over each other a few times.
  Remove the stick and you should have a nice loop.
  Thread the other end of the wire through the loop. You should be able to tighten the snare by pulling on one end.


Engine
You’ll want to set up your snare near some type of tree or shrub. A young tree is always a good engine because it’s bendable and quick to snap back into place.

You’ll be bending the sapling over and tying it down to the snare in order to act as tension. If you find yourself in an area void of trees or shrubs, you can always use dead weights like rocks.

Trigger
The trigger consists of two parts: The hook and the leading line. The leading line connects the trigger to the engine – usually a wire of some sort.

The trigger is connected to the noose and should tighten very quickly when pulled by the engine.

You can build an effective trigger by finding two pieces of wood and carving interlocking notches into the sides of each. The base of the trigger should be sturdy and stay in the ground. The hook in the trigger should be able to slip out at the slightest touch, so that if an animal passes through the noose, the trigger will slip out and tighten up by being pulled with the engine.

You can also modify the trigger to connect directly to a fishing line. When the fish pulls on the bait, the trigger will release and the engine will tug on the fish – hooking it in. However, you have to be careful not to have an engine that pulls too hard and rips right out of the fish’s mouth.

Here are a few different options when building a trigger:

Carved Trigger. This trigger is very effective but requires a knife or some type of carving utensil.
  Y Trigger. This trigger is great when you’re stuck without a knife or carving tool. You can simply find two sticks and roughen the two edges.
  Peg Style Trigger. Rather than having a base that sticks into the ground, you can stick a peg into a nearby log, tree or stump. This also allows you to apply bait to the peg.

Some other things to consider:

Remember … your human scent will be all over the wire and any trigger you may incorporate in your snare. Hold all parts of your snare in the smoke of a fire. And, before “smoking the parts” be sure to rub in dirt/mud and take off the “shine.”

A word of warning though. While rabbits would be a seemingly obvious target for capture with a snare a diet of rabbit meat alone will kill you. Seriously, it will, unless you can introduce fat into the diet as well as vegetation. It is a condition known as rabbit starvation where the hopeful survivor starts with diarrhea that dehydrates the body. A continued diet of rabbit and water will hasten the death. Food for thought. Lesson learned? Fat is an essential part of a survival diet.

Another great place to buy gear and for free manuals and videos on using snares is snareshop.com as well some great videos on youtube such as this:


 

Thanks to Willow Haven Outdoor for many of these ideas.

 

Start now to make sure you are staying prepared.

 

 

 

Via:   thereadystore


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September 3rd, 2014
post by policysup | | 0

Build Your Own Crossbow in 10 Steps

Guest post by Brandon Garrett

The crossbow is an outstanding field piece for hunting small game. It has all of the benefits of a bow-and-arrow such as reusable ammunition and silent firepower, as well as the comfort of a rifle stock and trigger pull. You can build your own effective, simple crossbow for less than $100 from basic parts. This step-by-step guide shows you how.

Materials:
• 2x pine two by fours, about 3 feet long
• 1x 1″ PVC pipe, about 3 feet long
• Nylon string
• 2 x miniature steel pulleys
• 6 x heavy-duty tie clips
• 2 x 2″ wood screws
• 2 x 4″ wood screws
• 1 x 2″ wood nail
• PVC or wood glue
• 1/4″ wood dowels

Building the Crossbow


Making the stock


1. Take a yard-long pine 2×4 and hold it against the shoulder of your dominant hand as you would a rifle stock. Find a comfortable length and mark the 2×4 at that length as well as where it feels most comfortable to place the trigger grip. A longer stock will give you a more powerful crossbow. Saw off the end past the length mark.


2. Draw a rectangle four inches long by one inch wide around the spot where you marked the trigger grip. Cut this rectangle out of the wood using a chisel, drill and rasp, and sand the edges.


3. Cut a 1/8 inch groove across the rectangular hole, towards the front of the hole. This will hold the crossbow string.


4. Cut a 1/4 inch channel down the exact middle of the top of the stock, starting from the rectangular hole and continuing to the end of the stock. Sand until it is smooth.


5. Cut a 22-inch piece of pine wood and attach it to the bottom of the stock using PVC glue. This will be the grip you will hold while firing the crossbow. If desired, shape it into a curved surface for more comfortable gripping.


Making the Bow
6. With a hacksaw, cut a PVC pipe to 35.5 inches long. Cut a notch at each end that is wide enough to accommodate a small woodscrew. Insert screws at both ends. Use a 2-tie clip to attach a pulley to each woodscrew.


7. Cut a 1-inch deep groove in the front end of the stock that is wide enough to hold the PVC pipe. Using two wood screws, attach the PVC pipe to the front of the stock. The screws should be long enough to firmly hold the PVC pipe to the crossbow stock.


8. Tie the nylon string securely to the woodscrew on the left end of the PVC bow. Loop the string under the crossbow stock and through the pulley on the right side of the bow. Come back over the top of the crossbow stock and loop it through the pulley on the left. Bring the string back under the stock and tie it securely to the woodscrew on the right side of the bow. Only the firing string should be above the crossbow stock. Draw the firing string back and make sure it fits securely in the firing groove. The string should pull taut when it is placed in the firing groove.


Making the Trigger Mechanism

9. Cut an L-shaped piece of wood that is 7/8 of an inch wide. It will need to fit snugly into the trigger housing but still be able to move more or less freely. Cut a 1/8 inch channel across the bottom of the L. Drill a hole through the angle of the L.


10. Place the L in the trigger housing with the groove up and the L pointing forward. Attach it to the crossbow stock by driving a nail through the stock housing and the hold at the angle of the L. The L should be placed so that it can “pop” the crossbow string out of the trigger groove when it is pulled.


Making the bolts
Notch one end of each of the wooden dowels so they fit snugly onto the nylon string. Sharpen the other end to a point. The bolts are lightweight and should fly up to 50 yards.


Updated April 23, 2014

 

Start now to make sure you are staying prepared.

 


Via: thereadystore


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June 6th, 2014
post by policysup | | 0

Altoids Tin Alcohol Stove

Altoids are curiously strong mints and the tins they come in are curiously useful.  Of course, there are innumerable variations out there for survival kits that fit into an Altoids tin.  Those kits are fun projects, especially if you’re a fan of putting together puzzles.  This Altoids alcohol stove project is a bit simpler than trying to Jenga-fit a bunch of odds and ends into a small kit.

Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Altoids tin
  • Metal window screen
  • Scissors or tin snips
  • Perlite
  • Denatured alcohol (the higher the grade, the better)

Getting Started

Rinse out the empty Altoids tin and dry it with a towel.  This isn’t absolutely necessary but starting with a clean slate, so to speak, is never a bad idea.

Pull out a handful of perlite from the bag and pick through it, finding the larger chunks and dropping them into the tin.  Fill the tin with perlite all the way to the top.


Adding the Screen

Lay a corner of the screen over the open tin and use a marker to draw an outline that is the same size as the tin.  Use scissors or tin snips to cut this rectangle out.  You’ll note the tin has rounded corners so trim the screen the same shape.


Next, fit the window screen over the top of the perlite and tuck the sides and corners into the tin.  I’ve found using a butter knife works well for this purpose.  The window screen serves to keep the perlite in place as you carry the tin around.

Note: rather than buying a roll of window screen just for this little project, you can either use an old screen you don’t need anymore or you can buy a window screen repair kit.  That kit will come with a few small “patches” of screen that you can put together for this project.


Using the Altoids Alcohol Stove

That’s all there is to it!  When you are ready to use the stove, add three tablespoons or so of alcohol to the perlite, then lay a lit match on the screen to light.  This will burn for about ten minutes or so, long enough to bring a quart of water to a boil.

If you carry your little stove in a bug out bag, you can keep the fuel in a well-sealed plastic container. Keep that and the Altoids tin inside a Ziploc bag, in case the container leaks.


You can’t place your cooking pot or pan directly on the stove as that will smother the flame.  Instead, place a small brick on each side of the stove and lay your pot on the bricks.


If you need to lower the heat level a bit, place a square of aluminum foil over part of the screen.  You can also douse the flame completely the same way or by flipping the Altoids tin lid over the flame but it is safer to just let it burn out and cool down before storing.

 

Start now to make sure you are staying prepared.

 

Via: thesurvivalmom


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May 8th, 2014
post by policysup | | 0

Build an underground greenhouse for year-round gardening


© Neo-farms

Growers in colder climates often utilize various approaches to extend the growing season or to give their crops a boost, whether it’s coldframes, hoop houses or greenhouses.

Greenhouses are usually glazed structures, but are typically expensive to construct and heat throughout the winter. A much more affordable and effective alternative to glass greenhouses is the walipini (an Aymara Indian word for a “place of warmth”), also known as an underground or pit greenhouse. First developed over 20 years ago for the cold mountainous regions of South America, this method allows growers to maintain a productive garden year-round, even in the coldest of climates.

Here’s a video tour of a walipini that even incorporates a bit of interior space for goats:

 


 

How a Walipini works and how to build one


© Benson Institute

It’s a pretty intriguing set-up that combines the principles of passive solar heating with earth-sheltered building. But how to make one? From American sustainable agriculture non-profit Benson Institute comes this enlightening manual on how a walipini works, and how to build it:

The Walipini utilizes nature’s resources to provide a warm, stable, well-lit environment for year-round vegetable production. Locating the growing area 6′- 8′ underground and capturing and storing daytime solar radiation are the most important principles in building a successful Walipini.

The Walipini, in simplest terms, is a rectangular hole in the ground 6 ‛ to 8′ deep covered by plastic sheeting. The longest area of the rectangle faces the winter sun — to the north in the Southern Hemisphere and to the south in the Northern Hemisphere. A thick wall of rammed earth at the back of the building and a much lower wall at the front provide the needed angle for the plastic sheet roof. This roof seals the hole, provides an insulating airspace between the two layers of plastic (a sheet on the top and another on the bottom of the roof/poles) and allows the sun’s rays to penetrate creating a warm, stable environment for plant growth.

SilverThunder/via

This earth-sheltered greenhouse taps into the thermal mass of the earth, so that much less energy is needed to heat up the walipini’s interior than an aboveground greenhouse. Of course, there are precautions to take in waterproofing, drainage and ventilating the walipini, while aligning it properly to the sun — which the manual covers in detail.

Best of all, according to the Benson Institute, their 20-foot by 74-foot walipni field model out in La Paz cost around $250 to $300 only, thanks to the use of free labour provided by owners and neighbours, and the use of cheaper materials like plastic ultraviolet (UV) protective sheeting and PVC piping.

Cheap but effective, the underground greenhouse is a great way for growers to produce food year-round in colder climates. More over at the Benson Institute and the Pure Energy Systems Wiki.

 

Start now to make sure you are staying prepared.

 

Via: treehugger


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Build it yourself, Gardening, Prepper , , , , , ,
March 19th, 2014
post by policysup | | 0

36 Paracord Projects

Parachute cord, which is now universally known as paracord, is a lightweight nylon all-purpose utility cord that is used by military personnel and civilians alike.

Paracord is an ideal material for lots of different types of projects due to its durability and flexibility. The uses of paracord as a tool in a survival setting are countless.

You are likely familiar with the ever popular “survival bracelets” made from paracord, which are meant to be unraveled when needed to lash poles together, to fix broken laces and straps and to secure cargo.

Did you know there are also 100′s of other great paracord projects you can also make? Paracord makes an excellent material for stylish bracelets, lanyards, pouches, watches, belts, dog collars, whips and more.

We picked 36 of our favorites for you to try out. Our selections offer everything from traps to whips to weapons, and even a keychain with a secret hidden compartment that makes a super tiny survival kit.

First thing’s first:

Paracord 101

You have to make sure you know what you’re working with and have the right supplies. If you really want to get into paraweaving, you should check out Paracord 101 before you start on your projects. With that, you should be all set to delve into these 36 paracord projects for preppers.

Here are 36 Paracord Projects for Preppers:

1. Paracord Belt

Keep your paracord close to you with this versatile, functional DIY. Everyone can use a belt and everyone should keep paracord on them! This tutorial shows you how to make a DIY paracord rescue belt, my favorite of all the paracord belts I tried.  Paracord bracelets can come in handy but only have 8-12 feet of rope, while a paracord belt can have up to 50 feet or more of rope.

In extreme situations, 50 feet of rope would be a lot more use for you than 8-12 feet. However, this paracord belt gives you at least 50 feet of rope that is quickly accessible, and depending on your waist size, up to 100 ft. This belt is a quick deploy survival rescue belt that uses Slatt’s rescue weave. You can unravel, or deploy, the paracord in a matter of seconds.

Make your own belt with these instructions.

2. Paracord Keychain with Secret Compartment


There are a lot of different ways to make these guys, but the one we like the best is this survival kit keychain from DIY Ready. You can store money, matches, any small essential survival items you can think of in this cool keychain with a secret compartment.

Make your own using these instructions.

3. Paracord Bullwhip

These instructions will help you make a bullwhip entirely out of paracord. It should not be that hard for those of you who know their way through ropes, knots and braiding. I wouldn’t recommend this as a beginner project though.

It involves careful and regular braiding of up to 12 strands a bit over 12 feet long, which can be a bit messy or frustrating if you’re not familiar with manipulating such lengths of cord. You will also need to know ( or be willing to learn) some ‘advanced’ knots to make it look nice.

For more information, click here.

4. Paracord Rifle Sling

Another sling to keep your weapons close by without taking up your hands. This is perfect for any hunter or outdoorsman.

Make your own with these instructions.

5. Paracord Giant Monkey Fist

Why make a regular monkey fist when you can make a giant one! This DIY using a pool ball core will give you the ultimate monkey fist to use for your self defense. A paracord monkey fist is beneficial to carry on you for survival and self defense purposes. It’s super easy to conceal and carries enough power to slow down any attacker.



In this tutorial you’ll learn how to make a paracord monkey fist using a pool ball! This giant monkey fist weighs in at a hefty 6 ounces! For the full instructions, click here.

6. Paracord Bundle Compression Strap and Handle

This is a very handy tool. It’s simple, but it will keep your sleeping bag, tarps, and other large items bundled up tight and easy to carry.

It can get frustrating carrying soft items like blankets or clothes to a camp ground. I designed this super easy to make strap to carry blankets; however, it can also be used to carry other items like bundled wood which makes it incredibly useful!! The Design is super simple and does not require many tools or materials. I used two colors to make this, but you could of course use one if you prefer. I am using this for camping so I made sure to choose darker color paracord to ensure that it will not show how dirty it will get after extended use. For the full instructions, click here.

7. Paracord Snow Shoes

You never know what kind of conditions you’ll have to be prepared for. Check out these instructions to learn how to make your very own paracord snow shoes.



This is a traditional style snow shoe with paracord for the webbing. The intention was to give a modern twist to classic style that almost everyone is familiar with. This tutorial includes a step by step for the frame and also shows you the basic weaving for the net. For the full DIY, click here.

8. Quick Deploy Paracord Bracelet

There are so many ways to make paracord survival bracelets. Here’s our favorite version: The Blaze Bar. The blaze bar paracord survival bracelet unravels in seconds:


For the full DIY, click here.

9. Paracord Survival Tin Pouch

Keep your Altoid Tin Survival Kit in this pouch to keep it protected and yourself prepared! Throughout this Instructable, I will be showing you guys how to make a pouchout of paracord. This particular pouch is made to fit an Altoids tin.

For many outdoorsman or survivalists, Altoid tins are the perfect containers for a small, pocket survival tin. I like using the pouch for my survival tin so I can pack more stuff into the tin and not worry about it popping open. Full instructions

10. Paracord Watchband


Add some survival to your daily wardrobe by  creating watchbands for a pre-existing watch face. Choose different colors to make different looks! This is a super project if you want to  make something unique and also functional.   You can make either a solid color watchband or one with two colors. You can also follow the same steps in this tutorial to make a bracelet with a side release buckle.

Check out the DIY instructions here.

11. Paracord Hanging Chair

With the addition of some palette boards, you can create a hanging chair out of paracord. Very comfortable, very easy to make chair from a pallet and some paracord.



I have never seen a chair like this before. It is so easy to make and it is comfortable because it conforms to your body.

For the instructions, check out this site.

12. Paracord Tent Rigging

With some paracord and know how, you can turn any ordinary tarp into a makeshift shelter.

For the full DIY, click here.

13. Paracord Koozie

Make a can koozie out of paracord to keep your drinks cold and yourself stocked up on paracord.

To make your own koozie, check out this DIY.

14. Paracord Snare Trap

This easy snare trap will help you catch small game and could be your key to staying fed in a survival situation. These instructions and tutorial will show you how to use paracord and sticks to create a basic snare that will increase your probability of catching something in the wild.

For more, check out the full DIY!

15. Paracord Dog Toys

This super strong material is perfect for chewing on by man’s best friend. These easy to make colorful rope toys are great for any size dog. Just scale up or down the diameter of the rope to fit your dog, 1/4″ for small dogs or 3/8″ for large dogs.



Directions given are for a basic toss/tug toy pictured below. Pictured are several variations based on the basic knot that can be created with a little practice and creativity. For the full instructions, check out the DIY.

16. Paracord Laptop Harnass

Stow your technology in this cool paracord case.

I noticed there wasn’t really a design for a paracord laptop harness/carrier made out of just paracord that didn’t involve simply weaving it, so I decided to remedy this with the paracord contest as a motivator.


When starting this project, I had several criteria I wanted to hit, and after three other prototypes, this one succeeds. 1) 100% paracord 2) Symmetrical and aesthetically pleasing 3) Successfully holds the darn laptop where it’s supposed to be! 4) Is easy to remove the laptop from and easy to put it back in

To make your own, check out these instructions.

17. Paracord Chair

Another chair with a different layout. This version doesn’t have to be suspended and features a seat of paracord rather than wood. This project is really simple, as it involves two intersecting wooden rectangles that have a seat and back made from woven paracord.

I’m going to assume that anyone attempting this project has basic woodworking skills and is familiar with power tools, so this won’t be a woodshop class. I will be presenting a flexible idea that can be modified rather than absolute plans… please feel free to experiment and play… but don’t get locked into a rigid perspective that there’s only one way to do it. :o) Want to build your own? Click here. 

18. Paracord Leatherman Pouch

Keep your Leatherman safe and close using paracord to fashion a custom pouch. This instructable will show you how to weave a custom made pouch using paracord. The method used can be easily modified to fit a range of items from multi-tools and torches to mobile phones. It is very simple to make and doesnt use any fancy or difficult knots.



This patricular pouch used a total of 25 feet of 550 paracord however if you are making a pouch for something larger then obvooisly you would need a little more. When making anything its always best to start with the best materials you can find which is why i always recommend using genuine military spec 550 paracord. The better the cord the longer your pouch will last. Find the full DIY here.

19. Paracord Dog Collar

This durable collar will stand up to almost anything and add some personality to your best friend! Right now, our favorite one is this DIY paracord dog collar. It’s the ultimate dog collar made with about 40ft of 550 paracord. This paracord dog collar is your best bet if you are looking for a stylish collar that is also super strong and durable.



If you’ve been following our paracord projects, then you know the Cobra weave is one of the more popular weaves. For this paracord dog collar, we are going to take it one step further and do a King Cobra weave! This weave is super strong and even adds a thickness and padding to the original cobra weave, making the collar more comfortable for pooches of all sizes. Find the full DIY here.

20. Paracord Double Monkey Fist Bookmark

This multi-functioning project can help you stay safe and up on your reading. This snazzy bookmark will have all your friends saying ‘cool’!  I like playing with knots and stuff, so when I saw a picture of this somewhere on the internet, I decided it would be a cool project to do.

It was a bit of a challenge, but it isn’t too difficult, and has a definite cool factor. Find the instructions here.

21. Paracord Bottle Net

Keep your water bottle strapped to you with this easy DIY. Great for hiking, biking, or any outdoor activity! I’ll be showing you how I made a fitted net to carry a nalgene bottle or other jar/bottle/item.



Using the lid loop on the canteen works, but I have had several break after a while, and then I am doomed to loose the lid. The net gives you multiple attachment options and offers some protection against rubbing. Make your own with these instructions.

22. Paracord iPhone Case

These instructions will help you make a case to protect your precious technology. Create this simple case with a few knots to keep the paracord wrapped tight and your phone secure and in place.



Use different colors to alter the look and create a case that’s custom to you! Full DIY here.

23. Paracord Bow Sling

Keep your bow close by and hands free with these instructions.

Make your own with these instructions.

24. Paracord Hammock in a Nalgene

Whether you want to use it for the backyard or for hammock camping, this DIY will help you create an extremely durable hammock. This is a hammock that can be used a food net (to keep bears away from food), fishing net, shelter, and of course a hammock.

Check out the instructions!

25. Paracord Lanyard

Lanyards are a great functional way of keeping your keys, now made even better with paracord! Make a Paracord Lanyard to hold your ID badge. A lanyard made of paracord will last a long time, and is very durable. You can pick from hundreds of colors of paracord. You can also add a Tracer, which is a piece of micro paracord braided in.



Full instructions. 

26. Paracord Eyeglass Lanyard

This DIY is perfect for anyone who enjoys being on the water. Whether fishing or floating, use paracord to keep your glasses or shades in place. This Instructable describes a method of making a paracord lanyard to help keep your glasses on, or near, your head.  Based on your adjustment of the cord, the glasses can either dangle on your chest, or be held snugly to the face.

This method uses only paracord; some alternative approaches that incorporate additional materials are shown at the end. Full instructions. 

27. Paracord Water Jug Harness

This simple rig can be customized to different sized jugs, a very convenient tool to have around when carrying water.

Follow these instructions to make your own!

28. Paracord Army Man

Keep kids entertained with this toy completely made of paracord.

Get the instructions here.

29. Paracord iPhone Cable

Everyone gets annoyed when their phone cable breaks. Up the durability with this project!

Full instructions here.

30. Paracord Self Defense Key Fob

On top of being a keychain, this project features a monkey fist addition to keep yourself defense ready.

Instructions here.

31. Paracord Drawstring Bag

This DIY will help you create a versatile and durable bag. Adjust the DIY for different sizes!

Since I was going for a simple design, I used overhand knots for 99% of this design; since it’s so simple, I’m sure others have ended up doing this at some point or another. Note: This can be used as a general idea on making more drawstring pouches/sacks using different knots. Check out the full DIY.

32. Paracord Multi-Tool Pouch

Every good prepper knows how important a multi-tool can be. So why not make it it’s own paracord pouch.

Make your own with these instructions.

33. Paracord Backpack Strap Wrap

Up the durability of normal pack straps by this addition of a paracord wrap. The Paracord Strap Wrap is a simple way of tidying up loose ends on your gear using various lengths of paracord. Using paracord instead of things like cable ties has its obvious advantages to any paracord fanatic.

Depending on the amount of the strap you want to cover and the thickness you want to make it you can use anywhere between 2 or 3 meters up to 15. Full instructions.

34. Paracord Bandoiler

 

Keep your ammo neat and orderly with this easy DIY.



Under certain circumstances I like to bring a rifle and ammo with me when I go into the wilderness. And of course it’s always a good idea to bring a length of paracord too. Both items fall into the “could come in handy” category of gear. In the endless persuit to lighten my pack and reduce bulk I’ve combined the two. Rather than just carrying around paracord on the off chance I might need it here’s a way to give it a full time job; holding your ammunition. It allows you to leave the ammo boxes at home and is a step up from just having loose rounds scattered about your pack.

Full instructions. 

35. Paracord Wallet

Aside from looking pretty cool, this super durable wallet will last a lot longer than traditional wallets. This wallet is made from approximately 28′ of gutted paracord.



Full insructions.

36. Paracord Rock Sling

This DIY will give you a back up weapon that doesn’t need bullets or arrows to be useful. You’ll never run out of ammo with this paracord slingshot.


The sling is one of the easiest ranged weapons you can make. Because of that, it is popular with survivalists and anyone who likes to improvise. It is a weapon made out of a piece of string or a cord. It has been used since ancient times for hunting and more prominently, in warfare. The sling was popularized as a cheap, easy to make weapon with range greater than that of a bow. Due to it low cost it is considered a weapon of the poor. Instructions here.

Ready to make some of these cool paracord projects?

Here are our top picks for supplies:

Paracord:

1000′  550 7 Strand Spool Paracord


ParacordPlanet 1000′ Spool of Type III 550 Paracord – Black


Royal Blue Parachute Cord 550lb Nylon USA Paracord Spool 1000′



Tools:

Perma Lok Super Jumbo Lacing Needle For 1/8″, 5/32″ Or 1/4″ Lace


5″ Paracord Knife


Accessories:

40 – 5/8″ (Whistle), 5/8″, 1/2″, & 3/8″ Black Side Release Buckles (10 Each) For Paracord Bracelets


Avler™ 1″ (25.4mm) Chrome Steel Bearing Balls for Paracord Monkey Fist Center (Pack of 10)


Cosmos ® 5 Set Silver Color Stainless Steel D Shackle + 4 Holes Adjuster for Survival Bracelets with Cosmos Fastening Strap


Jigs:

Multi-Monkey Fist Pro Plus Paracord Jig with Rotating Head Makes Monkey Fist From 5/8″ – 2 1/4″


Pepperell NOM054449 Parachute Cord Ezzy-Jig Bracelet Maker


Books:

Paracord 101: A Beginner’s Guide to Paracord Bracelets and Projects


Parachute Cord Craft: Quick and Simple Instructions for 22 Cool Projects (Design Originals)


 

Start now to make sure you are staying prepared.

 

Via: survivallife


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Build it yourself, Prepper , , , ,
February 17th, 2014
post by policysup | | 0

5-Gallon Bucket Survival Kit

A challenge was given for a 5-gallon bucket survival kit build-off. There were some really good submissions, and I’m going to highlight a few here.

From looking over them, it was cool to see what people put in them to tailor them to their own needs, yet there were a lot of similarities or variations on a theme. But they all had one thing in common: They were all extremely functional and useful, and anyone with a bit of knowledge could grab any one of them and head out the door, knowing their asses were in good shape.

I’ll tell you, though, it was hard picking a winner. But here he is, and I chose him for two reasons: He took the time to make a video of his bucket and proved that it did indeed fit all his gear in, and also because I thought his idea of including a small .22 pistol was a great idea, on top of his covering all the other basic criteria I’d set out.

The link to T.C.’s video is HERE, check it out, or watch below.


Cool trick with the bucket handle too. The list of his contents is as follows:

Shelter
3 mylar blankets
100′ paracord
tarp
duct tape
trash bag

Compass
1 compass

Knives
CRKT M16
CRKT stiff KISS

Signaling devices
cell phone
ham radio
2 whistles
SR22
2 mags
225 rounds of .22

methods to start a fire
96 matches
2 lighters
fire starter
magnifying glass

small ready water supply
3 water bottles

filtration method
Coughlan’s water filter

Food
2 cans beef
6 cans sardines
1 can pineapple
dried eggs
salt

light sources
Surefire G2
Maglight
Techlight
headlamp
extra Maglight batteries
extra Techlight batteries

Entertainment
card deck
New Testament

First Aid kit
4 Advils
2 pair rubber gloves
2 alcohol wipes
medical tape
3 gauze pads
tweezers
triple antibiotic

Other
2 ski masks
binoculars
fishing line
20′ TP
1 pair leather gloves
a copy of my DL
area map
extra eyeglasses

But, I’ll tell you, it was hard choosing him, especially when there were other great submissions like Bryce’s, who went the simple route, but it was comprehensive….plus he added an ALICE pack to carry the gear in if he needed the bucket for other things. I liked his addition of extra clothes (fresh socks are a godsend sometimes) and the trauma kit. Here’s his explanation:

”

-Small bunch of MREs stripped down to save space, enough for my wife and I to go at least 3 days, not the best eating, but they fill you up unlike most “rations”

-A couple of water bottles for immediate water usage, small bottle of water treatment pills

-Stainless steel “Klean Kanteen”, this is an awesome bottle that I can boil water in, also could work as a nice “club” 🙂

-Some waterproof matches, magnesium fire starter, and a lighter

-A “firecan”, soup can with cardboard and wax, essentially a tiny mobile camp fire, good for warmth or cooking

-One candle in a tin can

-Two flashlights and a headlamp

-Some extra socks and two T-shirts

-Altoids first aid kit, contains band-aids, smelling salts, alcohol swabs, tweezers, gauze, fingernail clippers

-Trauma kit, one CAT, gauze, ace wrap, and a chest seal

-One duct tape bound bible, this one has been through hell and back with me

-A hand rank radio with a light on it

-One multi-tool and a mora knife

-Duct tape, poncho, and paracord

-One watch with compass on band

-One paracord wrapped glow stick, this is for signaling, when you want to use it; unwrap the paracord, snap the glowstick, and spin it above you to create a “buzzsaw light”. I was told by a helicopter pilot that this is one of the best ways to signal aircraft.

-And finally, one medium alice pack to carry it all if I have to leave on my feat, I think this is one of the best ideas I have because most people will be putting all of these supplies in a bucket like this, with no way to carry all of it in a more comfortable way.”

Some of Bryce’s pictures:


This bucket kit came through from Warren, and it’s a great one. I really like how he took a woman’s possible needs into consideration, plus he added some neat ideas like a pry bar (have to get a car door open in an emergency?) and a folding saw to the mix. His plan is to build a couple of these, as well as using empty kitty litter pails (good idea!) to make lightweight medical kits that his daughters can pack. He also noted WHERE he sourced his gear from, which is nice.I really liked this kit, and like I said, it was tough choosing between them all.

”

so here is my list and some pics.  Everything was sourced from harbor freight, Walmart or home depot (or could be found at one of them).  Thanks for kicking me in the butt and reminding me to do this…been meaning to build these for a while.  I have these two general buckets built and am still working on the kitty litter buckets.

 

Sanitation

———————————–

4 toothbrushes

toothpaste

floss

bar of soap

shampoo

10 sanitary napkins (also first aid supply)

20 tampons(also first aid supply)

baby lotion

full roll of toilet paper

first aid

————————————

eye drops

triple antibiotic ointment

10 sanitary napkins (also first sanitation)

20 tampons(also sanitation)

razor (wound prep)

sewing kit (I am capable of stitching a wound)

2 hemostats (HF)

bandage shears (HF)

handful of safety pins (always handy for holding bandage, etc)

chapstick

6 stainless picks (like the dentist would use on teeth) for general probing, etc (HF)

6 thermal “space blankets” (WM)

box of 10 single edge razor blades (in waterproof case holding radio) (HD)

generic basic first aid kit in tight plastic box (WM)

food/water

———————————-

2 bottles of water

water treatment tabs with instructions (WM)

metal soup can (holds tampons and serves as a container in which to boil water)

5 lighters

magnifying glass (start fire from sun…also useful for first aid) (HF)

18 granola/nut/energy bars in sealed bag

shelter/navigation/etc

———————————–

lanyard with whistle/compass/signal mirror/waterproof match holder stocked with matches (WM)

pry bar (WM)

needle nose pliers (WM)

phillips and flat head screwdrivers (WM)

7×9 tarp (HF)

50 feet of nylon clothesline (WM)

am/fm radio with headset + extra battery (in waterproof “cell phone case” with box of razor blades (box and radio – WM)

foldable limb saw (HF)

pair of split leather gloves (HF)

headlamp (WM)

small led flashlight with SOS signal flasher (HF)

100 zip ties (HF)

2 glow sticks (WM)

2 pocket knives

small notebook (4×5 like a composition book made of index cards)

pencil

2 sets of ear plugs

small pair of binoculars

Small roll of duct tape (crushed flat)

HF = Harbor Freight

HD = Home Depot

WM = WalMart

Anything not marked I just had laying around the house”

Some of his pictures:


 

This one is from country79. He didn’t give a run-down list, but he included some good pictures of his kit.

 

He said in his email: “A few explanations may be in order for a couple the pictures.  In the fishing kit may not look like I have any line. But in the small bottle is 50′ of 30# mono. It stays untangled by threading one end through the cap and tying to the bottom of the bottle by two holes just big enough for the line to pass through. Then shoved and poked the rest through the cap of the closed bottle.  The final end is held in place by slot connected to the small hole in the cap. As long as neither end comes loose it stays straight ready for use. The other one may be the orange nalyen bottle. It has some spiced tea and green tea bags in it. Forgive me the limited description on the photos. Doing this off my phone.” By the way, that Mag-lite holder is really cool…be sure to check that out.

 

His pictures:

 



And last but not least of the email submissions (going in order by my inbox!) Craig submitted this kit. His first-aid kit is excellent, and he included a folding stove and fuel in his kit…any one using those penny beer-can stoves (like me!) knows that they can be a PITA to use if things aren’t exactly level and hard-packed…the folding stove is a great addition. It can also be used as a heat source if needed. He used a crusty old drywall bucket for his, so bonus camouflage points. This is a great kit, and I think a model of what would make a killer generic grab-for-anyone Bucket ‘o’ doom.

Obligatory mud bucket w/ gamma seal lid

Water

stainless steel water bottle

Aquamira water straw filter and tablets

flavor packets

2 full water bottles

Chow

2 BackPacker panty meals  (panty meals???? -TRW)

Clif bars

oatmeal

folding stove

canteen stove

ramen noodles

MSR fuel can

First Aid

CAT tourniquet

Israeli Battle dressing SAM splint triangle bandage

misc. bandaids

NPA/OPA

nitrile gloves

triangle bandages

mole skin

H&H compressed gauze

misc gauze pads

Curad Silver ointment

OTC medication: anti diarrhea, aspirin

Hygiene:

Tooth brushes

tooth paste

wet wipes

deodorant

toilet paper

Light”

LED light

Chemlights

LazerBrite light

UVPaqlite

Shelter:

Poncho

550 cord

space blanket

Fire kit:

Jute twine

WetFire tablets

weather proof matches

Bic Lighter

ferrocerium rod

Tools:

Mora Knife

Leatherman Wave

lensatic compaass

signal mirror with face paint

not pictured:

Kindle

It does all fit in the bucket with a bit of finagling.


Craig’s pictures:


The illustrious j.r. guerra in s. texas submitted this great kit outline via the comments section of the challenge post. I hate ticks with the fiery passion of a thousand burning suns, so I like his idea of using cards to pick ticks off! No pictures, but here’s what he has to say:

“I’ve already given this one a little thought. Reviewed contents of these kits and this is what I’ve come up with for ‘Nice To Have’ for our area:

SHELTER – Heavy Duty Space blanket / 55 gallon industrial trash bag (2) / Hammock / Rain Poncho w/ liner. All contained in waterproof ‘wet bag’.

FIRE – BIC lighter(s), Fire spark rod w/ striker, magnifying lens.

HYDRATION – Steel bottle or Steel canteens (2) w/ nesting cups (2) / foldable water bags (2) / water purifier pills / coffee filters (30) / sillcock key w/ washing machine hose adapter for water bags (urban areas).

TOOLS – CS bowie 12″ Machete / belt sheath knife (your personal choice) / pocket ‘Camping’ pattern knife / SAK Classic pen knife / Speedy Sharp sharpner.

MISCELLANEOUS – Folding saw / bank line (100′) / para-cord (50′) / G.I. trip wire (40′) / G.I. compass (w/ button backup) / Leatherman Tool or SAK Multi-tool / toothbrush / soap. Repair Wallet – Sewing needles (2 leather, 1 canvas, 1 cloth, 1 suture) / thread (10′ white – black, 20 heavy duty) / safety pins / heavy duty blanket pins / 5′ duct tape / extra ‘string bag’ back pack.

MEDICAL – TWEEZERS / burn salve / anti-biotic salve / syringe for wound irrigation / Isreali CAT bandage for ‘bad wounds’ / saran wrap / rubber bands (10 various size).

CLOTHING – 1 shirt / 1 pr. pants / 3 pr. socks (wool blend) / leather gloves / boonie or bucket hat. Thermal shirt for winter.

ENTERTAINMENT – cards – picking ticks off one another :^)

SIGNALING / LIGHTING – Signal mirror (2) / UVPaqlite UVO necklace (2) / Gerber -Fenix – other AA flashlight (2, one red light capable).

Pretty heavy bucket – good thing two are there to spell each other carrying it.

 

Some additional comments:

 

The extra clothes are a really smart idea. Being wet from snow or rain can not only be miserable, but cause other life threatening issues.

 

One thing I didn’t see, and perhaps this wasn’t stressed, was that while everything in a sealed bucket is essentially water tight, not everything in those buckets were. I would only add that for the items of hygiene, first aid, food, etc, you would consider either vacuum sealing those things, or putting them into ziplocs, or watertight containers because I know from my own experience with Murphy ‘s Law, just because you put a lid on it, doesn’t mean it won’t leak.

 

I keep a carhart coat and bibs in the vehicle 365 days a year. I’ve seen ice in June for two days. Winter gear always.

 

I am sure there are many other ideas and many things as stated would change for each area and situation.

 

Start now to make sure you are staying prepared.

 

Via: shtfblog


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